I’ve always thought that split views after a show was a good testament to a designer, as it shows that the collection was interesting and well let’s face it, actually made people think for a change. This was definitely the case after the Alexander McQueen show. Whilst some young fashionistas heralded McQueen’s autumn/winter offerings as genius and refreshing to the monotony we’ve seen this season, others criticised the vampy pin doll theme of the models' makeup, calling the show a misogynistic view of women. Whoever thought fashion could be so deep?
Whatever you think about McQueen, his show appearing at the end of the fashion week schedule was fitting. As they say, leave the best until last. In New York, designers tried to show optimism and rebel by using random and often disturbing 80s references, like neon colours in a collection that is dominantly black. For the commercially driven New York, this equates as edgy and risqué. This season, McQueen did not hide from the economic downturn, nor did he run and create a collection in highlighter-pen shades to fight against. Instead, he faced the current economy head on by appealing to women in their 30s, as these are the most affluent women at the moment, but in a playful way. Why do you think the 30-something-year-old ‘supers’ are appearing in all the ad campaigns and not teenage girls anymore?
As Style.com said this morning, McQueen definitely explored some of the best pieces from Christian Dior on the orange dresses for example, and channelled Chanel in the tweed skirt suits to great effect. For an added sense of nostalgia the set was created by old remains of McQueen’s past shows.
What is it about hounds tooth this season? It’s graced the likes of Lela Rose’s show in New York and Stella McCartney in Paris to name a few and has now served as the backbone or the McQueen show. Hounds tooth scarves tied in a bow around the neck and on tights were styled with a stiff tweed structured top with an asymmetric hem and tweed skirt.
McQueen lulled us into a false sense of security. The collection began with leather appearing on accessories like elbow length leather gloves, which ended in head-to-toe leather looks by the end. I’m talking floor-length leather dresses, leather boots and leather gloves. We can always leave McQueen to take a trend to its extremes and beyond.
Accessories in the collection were very innovative. Hats were a focal point including hats shaped as open umbrellas, some as avant garde as the rim of a car tyre.
The collection was not as breathtaking as what we saw from last season. However the couture craftsmanship on dresses and knitwear were sublime.