Minimalism has been the buzz word over the last few seasons but in the S/S12 shows editors, particularly Giovanna Battaglia, expressed their delight at seeing a movement away from the aesthetic in favour of prints and colour. Calvin Klein Collection will always be about modernity and minimalism but what Italo Zucchelli has managed to do so well is to ensure that all of these signatures are there, whilst still moving with the times as Phoebe Philo has also mastered at Celine.
As always the collection was deceivingly simple. The usual camels were there on oversized double breasted coats and tailored trousers. A generous helping of grey flannel appeared on suits in the middle and classic oversized ponchos and cashmere and mohair knitwear also featured throughout. In that respect, it was business as usual but where it got interesting was in Zucchelli's use of fabrics. The use of black alligator skin on trousers, the sleeves of jackets and mixed with cotton on simple long sleeved tops showed that minimalism can paradoxically have a maximalist feeling through the use of luxurious fabrics. The transparent nylon overlay used on a parka was evidence of the designer's ability to rework the classics in a way that is experimental but always very masculine.
The collection had an urban feeling, created by the hooded jackets, parkas and bomber jackets that all came styled with cotton white shirts. Each piece is something that you can imagine men wearing now, a feeling very much in the present compared to the designer's penchant to look to the future.