I firmly believe that Stefano Pilati is to Yves Saint Laurent what Karl Lagerfeld is to Chanel. Don't agree with me? Over the past few seasons, like Karl, Pilati has been able to take a classic powerhouse brand and continue to develop the classic elements but channel them in a modern way that is relevant. The recent success of the "New Vintage" collection for the brand is evidence of that. After being launched in Barneys this week, the collection completely sold out the same afternoon, and the brand continues to do well amongst a young generation. Still disagree with me?
For the resort collection, Pilati moved the brand in a new direction. Instead of showing structured and severely tailored pieces that he is known for, the shapes of the collection were a lot softer and deconstructed than we have ever seen from him. Blazer jackets lacked the boning that we expect and instead, were a lot more fluid and relaxed. Trousers took a similar style and were often dramatically wide-legged and more fitted on the waist or hips. The ultimate relaxed trouser shape, the harem, also made an appearance in peach, layered over leggings.
Pilati made sure to keep the successful leather elements from the autumn/winter collection into the resort show, displaying beautiful brown cropped leather jackets that were youthful with an edge, as well as presenting more classic styles.