Ennio Capasa is sticking with a good thing: Pushing the relationship between fashion and technology to come up with some of today's most innovative menswear. The Costume National designer started experimenting with new textile techniques last season (laser cutting fine fabrics, using thermo-welding on his pieces), and at his Spring/Summer '10 show at Milan Menswear Week on Saturday, he continued pushing the limits. "This collection should be looked at closely," Capasa said. "It's full of inventions that take traditional Italian tailoring into the future."

How did that translate? Fine wool and silk took on a nylon effect, white tuxedo jackets felt fresh with burnt laser-cut hems, and even finishing touches like buttons and zips were high-tech and nearly invisible. As for colours, Capasa relied on a traditional menswear palette (cream, beige, grey and black), with the single, unexpected injection of lime green for interest. All of this felt like a burst of fresh air for menswear, and Capasa truly hit his stride as a legendary designer. Anyone who can successfully interpret sheer shirts for men - and have it feel natural - has our vote.