Marco Zanini's first collection for Rochas didn't come out with a bang. Instead, the designer gave us a taste of the '30s, with dignified shirt dresses, simple trousers, mid-calf skirts and sweet little day shorts. The prints were a bit Dries van Noten, with rich solids of mulberry, lemongrass, teal and caramel.

Zanini wanted to bring out the French colonial spirit, he told the New York Times. "What is French apart from the Eiffel Tower?" he said. "I didn’t want a cliché, so I looked East, to the colonies, to Indochine."

Our favourites were the nuanced touches - a flower on a belt, a muted ribbon on a hat - that took the collection to the next level. Mr Zanini's going places, we say.