Phoebe Philo's effect on the spring/summer shows was the hot topic of conversation during New York Fashion Week. Designers clearly took inspiration from her designs at Celine, showing minimalist pieces with a predominantely neutral colour palette. Unlike others, Maria Grachvogel has been doing timeless minimalism for years. It's all about designing clothes that work hard for customers, she recently told me.
A caramel silk crepe blouse opened the show styled with relaxed fit shorts in caramel satin backed crepe, shortly followed by a simple but classic nude shift dress that you'll wear season after season. The colour palette was fresh mainly centring on nudes, caramels and off-whites but Grachvogel also played with bright yellow on a dramatic floor length dress - that came volumous at the top and beautifully fitted at the bottom - and slouchy pocketed silk crepe shorts styled with a silver chiffon blouse. "I was just inspired to play with colour this season," she said, which translated on bright oranges and greens, that were worked with black and greys on her signature hand-painted prints.
The collection was deceivingly simple warranting a closer look to appreciate the detail making it ever the more necessary to watch the models walk up and down the runway to avoid missing small details like an intricate drape on the back of a dress or the pockets of shorts. And that was intentional. "Everything doesn't always have to be so obvious," she said backstage.