I am the first to admit that fashion should not be taken too seriously. I mean, as they saying goes 'We're not curing cancer or anything'. But every once in a while we witness something in fashion that, whether it's an exhibition, an interview or a collection, will stay in our minds forever. That was definitely the case at the Nina Ricci show today in Paris. If there was ever a point to make, this was it. Today Oliver Theyskens showed his strongest collection yet to great applause.
After much controversy about the price points for his glamourous designs for the houses, many of which retail for £7,500, it was recently confirmed that this is the last collection for the designer under the legendary brand.
The collection was predominately black, but strapless dresses with a hint of turqoise on the hemline and aubergine floor length creations helped create a balance. Many left the show feeling that the black represented the end of an era; a melancholic reference to Theyskens departure from the brand. His source of inspiration and thought behing the colour palette was far from it. Talking to style.com backstage he said: "I was thinking about a nocturnal mood. Not nightclubbing at all. Something moonlit- a bit magical". Mr Theyskens, I could not agree more. The collection was dark and romantic. Moonlight references were clear on the sequin, glitter panels on bod con dresses a la Balmain two seasons ago.
Shoulders were pronounced on dresses and coats; a sleek and sexy update to 80s power dressing. Anything that looks strong but doesn't make me think of Margaret Thatcher is definietly a bonus. Structured shoulders and volumous sleeves on jackets were styled over bod con dresses or skinny pants creating an interesting dynamic between the contrasting silhouettes. His suits deserve a big Tyra Banks, 'FIERCE' (hand motion included).
Leather jackets gave Rick Owens a run for his money. I don't know what Owens will think after hearing Sarah Mower, of style.co, say that they were 'the best leather jackets in Paris'. Not bad eh? I am sure the bosses at Nina Ricci are kicking themselves. Theyskens proved that not only can he present Oscar wearthy glamourous dresses, he can also deliver strong wearble looks.