Nicole and Michael Colovos' sent out a strong collection yesterday at Helmut Lang. It's by no means an easy feat dealing with a brand that has such a strong DNA and sadly that showed last season. While the show marked a much welcomed edition to the New York Fashion Week calendar, many criticised the collection for being repetitive and for failing to delve out of the brand's signatures but this season was different. The design duo took these points on board and produced a collection that will satisfy the buyers and customers that will always buy into their classic pieces, whilst also introducing enough new elements to keep things fresh and interesting.
Asymmetric funnel neck jackets were business as usual but on some, the pair introduced fur details along the body that felt more luxurious than what we have seen in the past. Their classic blazers came without lapels and were updated with armadillo-stamped leather sleeves which also appeared on black leather trousers and on a beautiful belted biker jacket that came teamed with a black maxi skirt. Knitwear was another strong point. Styles ranged from chunky and oversized to some of the thin web-like variety. Colour palette-wise, the collection was largely black but a good selection of black and red volcanic like prints that came towards the red helped break it up.