Hussein Chalayan's spring collection went down as smooth as vermouth in a '40s club. And speaking of nightlife, the designer himself oversaw his fashion show - decked out in a pencil 'stache, slicked hair and a bandleader tux. It was perfect for the retro vibe brought on by a (relatively) simple collection.
But a return to minimalism for Chalayan, who's known for his avant-garde and even technological clothing, isn't as simple as it might be for other designers. Sure, there were pared-down jackets and easy lapels, but those shared the runway with silk plisse gowns that undulated like the waves of the sea. Less complicated than normal? Sure. But easy to copy? Never, at Hussein Chalayan.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, shown over the weekend at Paris Fashion Week, included a softer take on his iconic cone bra, which has appeared many times on the catwalks this season. And who was to model Gaultier’s pièce de résistance – a chocolate-coloured padded cone and dome top – a pregnant Jourdan Dunn of course.
The designer, who adorned the majority of his looks with chest add-ons, also worked in his signature underwear as outerwear trend throughout a show which was described as “funny at times” by New York Times fashion critic, Cathy Horyn.
Introducing tulip shorts: Karl Lagerfeld chose to show off the leg and emphasise the hip in his Spring/Summer 2010 collection this weekend in Paris. For his eponymous line, the Chanel and Fendi designer impressed front-row guests like Katy Perry and Rihanna with tiny shorts in everything from red leather to white satin.
Lagerfeld said he wasn't going for hotpants or Bermuda shorts, and he dressed up his pieces with frilly white blouses, cocoon-shaped white coats and even prim office blouses. Tiny white dresses were anything but simple, with sequin appliques and rounded shoulders.
We like that Lagerfeld's take on shorts offers something different during Lady-Gaga-pantsless season. You might not get much coverage here, but Uncle Karl is looking out for you.
Lindsay Lohan has been a busy girl of late. Between acting as artistic adviser-come-muse of Emanuel Ungaro since August, and all that partying, most recently at Vogue's 90 years of magazine covers party in Paris on Friday, she has can now add model to her CV. The sometimes flame-haired actress has posed for an advertising campaign in which, she dons the new range of leggings for her brand 6126. Sporting newly dyed tresses and a sultry pout, Lohan showcases an array of cut out, nude coloured ribbed and studded leggings all of which are priced between $60 and $132.
The fashion scene has been rife with rumours of Richard Nicoll becoming the new designer for Cerruti, and tomorrow it is to be officially confirmed. Nicoll will continue to work on his own label, whilst working in Paris for Cerruti for two to three days a week, and has announced that he is "really pleased" at getting the position. His signature style had been recognised by insiders on Cerruti's pre-collection designs, sprouting the rumours last week that the London-based Australian designer would be working for the Italian brand - which will be made public tomorrow when Nicoll starts his first official day in the office. With Nicoll already working on the AW10 collections in time for February, we're very excited to see the results.
But Ms. Lohan's arrival at a 45 year-old Paris house known for $1,500 dresses and a tradition of couture craftsmanship is entirely different, something akin to a McDonald's fry cool taking the reins of a three-star Michelin restaurant
”The critic from The New York Times said in his review of the house's Spring/Summer 2010 show
Despite emerging as a trend some seasons ago, the stud mania is sticking around. With embellishment continuing as a key look for S/S10 it is safe to say that studs will be no exception. Adorning everything from shoulder pads and bags, to shoes and shorts, it's all in the detail. It seems the strongest way to make a statement is with accessories, as we saw first hand at London Fashion Week. First done by the likes of Alexander Wang and Christian Louboutin, others have been quick to catch on, especially when it comes to street style. Anyone with any Make-Do-And-Mend streak of course, will be giving their clothes the stud treatment themselves!
When Esteban Cortarzar left Ungaro earlier this year after producing only three collectionsonly, we wondered what would become of the label which, in the past was famed for its Parisienne chic lines and bold colours and prints. Then came Estrella Archs, a Central Saint Martins graduate with seriously impressive credentials including working at luxury fashion houses such as Prada, Emilio Pucci,Nina Ricci and Cacherel, to name but a few, as well as launching her own small signature collection in Paris in 2007.
