October 07, 2009
Alexander McQueen went all Al Gore on us this season. The designer introduced a blunt collection that, as he explained, followed an impending eco meltdown that will leave humans more like sea creatures. Or something like that.
Dresses covered in digital prints (mostly reptile designs) showed off plenty of leg and then some. Wasp-waisted silhouettes took over, with the occasional dose of smooth Savile Row tailoring added. A few swirling frocks were something you might have seen in a Rodarte collection, and the whole deal apparently impressed Lady Gaga quite a lot. She Twittered, a half-hour before Nick Knight's SHOWstudio.com was to stream the fashion show online, that McQueen would debut her new single. Having a million dedicated Twitter followers, as Style.com pointed out, Lady Gaga's announcement helped the site to promptly crashed from the influx of viewers.
McQueen's digital prints are geting a lot of buzz post-show, and we love how he's driving his concept home. We couldn't help but think, though, that London has its very own up-and-coming print master (who shares the McQueen sense of architecture in clothing) in its midst. William Tempest, we'll expect this from you someday.
See more images after the jump
October 07, 2009
Sometimes we compare rockers to gods. For spring, Riccardo Tisci produced a collection that means we'll never have to choose between the two. Everything at Givenchy went hard-vs-soft: rigid lapels and sharp shoulders contrasting with goddess-draped chiffon, for example. And Tisci's kaffiyeh scarf-inspired graphic print (hey, the man loves to travel) provided just the whimsy to carry it all off.
The expertise in tailoring was clear. Shoulder silhouettes seemed nearly razor-cut, but the same perfection also qualified for tiered minidresses that left models' legs looking a few miles longer than before. Some of our top picks were the semi-sheer draped dresses, though. Never giving us something too 'done', Tisci leaves his Spring '10 girl wrapped in a semi-disheveled cocoon of delicate, pale-yellow fabric. Dreamy? We think so.
Harem pants came back around in the latest Givenchy collection, and sure, we've seen the near-geometric silhouette, in doses, before. But Tisci's elements of Arabic influence, with techniques borrowed from '60s Roman couture, produced a winning set of looks that should be flying off shelves in 3, 2, 1...
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October 07, 2009
There is a new, youthful Valentino girl on the Parisian scene, and how we love her so. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli brought us a fresh look for Valentino's Spring Summer 2010 collection, complete with shorter hemlines, a sophisticated palette and sumptuous, sheer fabrics. Pieces were floaty, feminine without becoming weak - almost with a slight Gothic edge induced by spindly black lace trimmings, mystical swirls and gathers of fabrics and antique looking lace.
The collection was predominantly neutral with not a red dress in sight: the design duo opted for a chic choice of muted rose, lavender, nude, gold and grey, drawing attention to the detailing in the garments with feather-light layering and swirling hemlines. Nude ruffles brought a romanticism to the collection, which contained an array of knee skimming cocktail dresses - the whole collection of which was to die for. Chiuri and Piccioli brought us grown-up femininity at its best, with key pieces being the washed out grey lace trouser suit, the ruffled organza top teamed with black, textured leather skinnies and the sheer black, strapless jumpsuit. All in all, this was a simply beautiful collection. On trend, but classic at the same time, Valentino became the label that will be so relevant for SS10, and yet such an investment.
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October 07, 2009
We, like most of the fashion community, have a love-love relationship with Phoebe Philo. The woman turned Chloe to gold several years back, and now that she's out of retirement and designing for Celine, we remember just the kind of buzz she can create for a brand.
So let's talk Paris. Philo's runway collection pared down luxury sportswear to its most basic - and sexy - form. Crisp white shirts with voluminous, camel-coloured wide-legs? Yes, please. A safari trench dress that doesn't seem like a cliche? We'll take it. Philo shone in everything from basic semi-sheer jumper and pleated-skirt combos to leather-accented LBDs. With a simple colour palette of white, black, camel and beige, it was the stark cutting alone that stood out.
Philo told Style.com that, for spring, she wanted to create a powerful and contemporary sense of minimalism. A bit of housecleaning, she could say. We certainly saw a selective collection this week - but basic, it absolutely was not.
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October 07, 2009
He revolutionised the photography industry with his 'less is more' tactic, producing iconic work that has inspired many to date. Irving Penn, American fashion photographer died aged 92 at his apartment in New York City today, as confirmed by his film-maker brother and director of 'Bonnie and Clyde', Arthur Penn. Most certainly a great loss to the industry,Penn began contributing to Vogue in 1943, becoming one of the most influential photographers to make a smooth transition from fashion to art photography.
Read and see more of Penn's work after the jump
October 07, 2009
An oversized and over-masculine suit opened the Chloé show to a predominantly formal and mannish start, followed with boxy shirts and leather flats - which left us wondering where our floaty, feminine, yet edgy Chloé girl had gone. Colours were in-keeping with the brand's identity - an array of cream, camel, khaki, black and the occasional bright piece - and as the catwalk progressed, our girl got her identity back.
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October 07, 2009
Opening with a succession of sharply pressed, cocoon sleeved, pleated pieces - all in white - the minimalist, sleek aesthetic we associate with Yves Saint Laurent ran true. Aiming for "a natural and honest chic, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism", as stated in the YSL program, the first four pieces certainly reflected this desire. However, Stefano Pilati threw in a few surprises for us in the Spring Summer 2010 collection - the first being small strawberry earrings, which then developed their way into the pieces into an appliqued pattern on floor length, cotton skirts.
Read more after the jump
October 07, 2009
Agyness Deyn wore this oversized black boyfriend blazer and boots at the screening of 'An Education' hosted by The Cinema Society and Dior Beauty.
What do you think of her look?
