It would appear that Jean Paul Gaultier is looking for a rock-and-roll queen for Spring, and we wouldn't question that he's a fan of 'The Runaways'. In a catwalk show opened by Gossip singer Beth Ditto, fashion's favourite curvy girl, the designer channelled all things Joan Jett from his models' lace stockings to the heavy supply of multi-coloured rocker-mullet wigs.
The mood of rebellion, which continued down to Gaultier's cutaway Doc Martens, translated into Cher-style wraparound bodysuits covered with black lace and blood-red corset shorts. Jumpsuits were in full supply, and the designer's well-loved trenches came pleated and perfectly ready for a post-concert escape to the nearest tour bus. Whatever rock diva caught his fancy for Spring, we're just glad Gaultier decided to be with the band.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are known for their theatrics, and this season, their dramatic take on men's sportswear could have the likes of Gaga and Rihanna clamouring over who'll get to wear some Viktor & Rolf lace first. It started simply enough, with the designers taking a riff on the classic men's button-up, and ended with a monstrously proportioned, multi-sleeved wedding dress that would be nearly as wide as most brides are tall.
For those of us who don't have pop concerts to throw, the most wearable pieces from the collection will be the duo's white satin shirt dresses, or perhaps the strong-shouldered blouses and simple trousers. Victorian-lace panels on dresses - of the wedding variety or otherwise - added a touch of the ornate, though among the collection, it was easy to find basic, everyday wear. By that, we mean the pieces that will make it to the shop floor will leave customers able to fit through the door.
Vivienne Westwood's goal for her Spring '11 collection is a familiar one, for this designer. Her latest looks seem to be all about saving the planet (the reducing, reusing and recycling was emphasised with refillable water bottles placed on guests' seats), though the show notes made it ostensibly about channelling lost civilisations. Either way, the pieces that made it down the runway had a haphazard and recycled feel that, properly nuanced, felt like classic Westwood.
The inventive punks from the designer's spring show wore a mish-mash of prints, from stripes to paisley, and stomped out in everything from Pebbles Flintstone slashed tees to airy, free-flowing metallic evening gowns, cut short to reveal the pants. Westwood is always fashion for fashion-lovers, and this season was no different. There's something to be said about pushing sustainability and still producing collections twice yearly, but in this designer's case, the mission can surely match the aesthetic.
John Galliano was ready to take a trip this season, and for that, he sent a collection of naval-inspired, colour-blasted looks down the Christian Dior runway for Spring '11. It was a mix of masculine (sailor hats and service uniforms) and feminine (flouncy, sheer silk dresses that would have been worn by navy wives and girlfriends), with retro Bettie Page wigs topping each model.
Although the tropical, embroidered frocks sent last down the runway likely will receive the most attention - if for nothing more than grabbing the camera more - we found the collection best at its simplest and most menswear-inspired. With Carine Roitfeld sitting front row, we'll see what editorial attention the collection drums up come March.
PETA, beware: Kate Moss chose all-black fur and leather for her appearance at the Christian Dior runway show at Espace Ephemere in Paris this season. We're loving the roughed-up, texture-heavy feel of her essentially demure silhouette.