Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais know a thing or two about Edwardian tailoring, after all they are well-known for their Victorian aesthetic.
This season that transpired on strong lines on monochromatic blazers - that came with leather lapels- and wide leg trousers. Inspired by tailoring and aristocratic suiting, the collection was blazer-heavy in the classic boyfriend shape in a shiny black shade. Houndstooth featured throughout on boxy cropped jackets teamed with matching skirts teamed with Victorian blouses and also on double breasted jackets with leather sleeves. Although we give the pair kudos for being experimental with their signature aesthetic, the collection often felt haphazard and lacked cohesion and focus.
Just in case you're unfamiliar with Christian Siriano, the Maryland-native rose to fame in 2008 after winning for forth season of 'Project Runway' and things haven't quietened down for the designer ever since. Over the last three years Siriano has managed to do what many others haven't by bucking the reality-show-come-designer trend who quite frankly, don't go anywhere.
Yesterday Siriano didn't disappoint. Rather than sticking with his usual penchant for theatrics, this season he opted for a more subdued collection focusing a lot more on details and textures. Maxi skirts came in dramatic ruffle styles but were toned down tesamed with simple sheer tees. Despite showing a black-heavy collection, it didn't feel dated or 'done'. He cleverly teamed a black tulip maxi skirt that had a subtle shine with a simple cashmere turtlneck to make the hue look more interesting.
As New York Fashion Week begins, the talk in the tents is already centred on the ever-evolving story about Carine Roitfeld's departure from French Vogue and Emmanuelle Alt's new role at the magazine. This week Cathy Horyn wrote a piece in The Times about Alt's promotion and ignited speculation about the reasons behind Roitfeld's decision to resign.
'Ms. Roitfeld’s undoing as editor in chief was triggered, people in Paris speculated, by her December issue, which was devoted to all things Ford, not least sex,' she wrote. 'For one spread, he photographed a pair of elders groping each other in a smear of lipstick and neck wrinkles. Mr. Ford declared he was tired of youth culture.' Vogue Italia's Franca Sozzani recently commented about critically about vulgar and trash being widespread, leading many to speculate that she was referring to French Vogue's provocative shoots.
At the Fash Pack we're all big fans of Richard Chai so we're slightly biased in talking about his fall collection. This season he followed through with the 90s grunge reference but ironically did it in a summery way for fall. Maxi dresses came with spaghetti straps in muted grey but were given a feminine touch with flashes of prints in lilac and white floral which also made an appearance on a cropped top styled over a grey tee and underneath a boxy neutral jacket.
He also worked with tailoring and outwear this season. The show opened with a dark grey two-piece trouser and jacket suit tied at the waist followed by classic bootcut trousers teamed with a sheer navy blouse and textured blazer. At times the opening looks were layered on too heavily which distracted from the craftsmanship of the pieces but the styling became less so as the show progressed.
But for those of you feeling nostalgic about your teenage angst years, Chai served up an up-to-date version, sending models down the runway with over the knee slouched tops over grey sheer maxi dresses teamed with heavy wool coats.