With his last two collections at Mugler, Nicola Formichetti has put on a show. Whether it's Lady Gaga's links with the brand or Formichetti's own celebrity, the shows have undoubtedly always been a spectacle. This season felt different. Rather than focusing on what the soundtrack was or whether Gaga would walk in the show or sit front row, this season was all about the clothes.
Designers have really played with highlighting the female form this season and this is something that Mugler is known for so it was no surprise to see Formichetti explore the brand's feminine silhouette.The shoulders were dramatic, which emphasised the waist especially on the series of white peplum looks that opened the show.
Though it was clear that the designer was conscious of the past, the sci-fi space-age feeling created on the white looks felt modern and fresh. What was particularly interesting about this collection was his ability to have those dramatic pieces like the fringed white coats with fur sleeves whilst also being conscious of presenting looks that would sit easily on any shop floor.
Marco Zanini's collection at Rochas moved away from movie references this season and instead, the pottery of Swedish artist Wilhelm Kage served as the starting point. This translated onto a collection that was full of geometric contrasting prints and despite Zanini calling the combinations a 'certain disregard for quiet good taste', it really worked.
His latest offerings were a lot more desirable and in tune with what people want to wear compared to the formal fifties theme that he showed for spring. The clashing prints - particularly on shirts tucked into high waisted skirts - isn't for the faint hearted but will undoubtedly be seen on the backs of the fashion pack at the shows next season. On the more wearable looks, the prints were toned down by teaming them with simple pieces like a textured skirt or simple ribbed knits. Colour-wise there was everything you could ask for from a fall collection like rich goldish-browns, navys and autumnal green.
Despite being appointed as the editor-at-large for US Glamour last month, Louise Roe is very much still a member of the Stylist Pick team, so much so that she has just unveiled her own range for the site.
To celebrate the launch, Roe will be in the Stylist Pick pop-up shop in London's Westfield White City on Saturday holding a fashion talk to VIP members. We're offering 10 readers a chance to attend the VIP event. All you need to do is email vipevents@stylistpick.com now.
I am just about the only person that hasn't fallen in love with the Carine Roitfeld-styled Jennifer Lopez cover for V magazine, but this editorial featuring Adriana Lima and Doutzen Kroes in the sports themed issue definitely makes up for it. The Victoria's Secret models show off their enviable post-baby bodies in the Mario Testino-shot editorial wearing lingerie pieces styled by Nicola Formichetti.
There's no question about it, Anthony Vaccarello's S/S12 collection catapulted him to fame. Shortly after Karlie Kloss sported 'that' dress on the runway, Carine Roitfeld wore it at her fashion week closing party and Gwyneth Paltrow reminded us just how banging her body is when she wore it on the cover of Harper's Bazaar last month. But Vaccarello's fall show was different. To open the show he sent Kloss down the runway completely covered up wearing high waisted slim line trousers, a shirt and a simple utility jacket. Instantly it was clear that he wanted to make a statement this season and show that he has more than one string under his bow.
While his spring collection was met with much critical acclaim, the common feeling was that his clothes do not extend beyond being suitable for the young and super slim and this is something he took to heart. Trousers appeared throughout in high waisted streamlined styles that most women could pull off and the introduction of simple knits and great utilitarian outerwear also added to the accessibility of the collection. In the second look the hemline on the skirt was high but unlike last season, the feeling was more of power and strength rather than overt sexuality. Don't be fooled though, there were some teeny weeny dresses in there, but on the whole the collection hit all the right notes and the statement gowns that he showed at the end will undoubtedly make the rounds this season.
The fashion musical shares unfortunately shows no sign of slowing down and the Dior situation is the story that just keeps on giving. Yesterday Hint Mag alleged that Bill Gaytten isn't as temporary as we all thought. According to the site, Gaytten has just signed a three year contract to continue serving as creative director.
And that's not all. Like Marc Jacobs, Raf Simons was allegedly offered the job but asked for too much money, which is why Dior CEO Sidney Toledano reportedly decided to keep Gaytten on board.
One Monday back in January I spent the morning with Amy Powney, Head Designer at Mother of Pearl. Rather than meeting in a fancy restaurant or hotel in Central London, which is often the case, Powney invited me to the brand's studio based in the middle of East London's bustling creative scene. The team were in the middle of preparing for their A/W 2012 collection but were kind enough to devote their morning to talk me through the brand and transport me into the Mother of Pearl world; and I can safely confirm that that world is not a bad place to be. The team are uncompromisingly enthusiastic and passionate about what they do and it's infectious.
Whilst you may be unfamiliar with the brand now, give it a year or so and that will change. The company has actually been around for several years but it is only now that things have really come together. Teams have come and gone and the aesthetic has changed several times so it was only four seasons ago when Powney was appointed as head designer that things began to change. This fact isn't something they shy away from. In fact, Powney was pretty frank when asked about it. "People in the industry take fashion very seriously so if you've seen a brand through several different phases, people move on and lose interest. It has taken time to get people to come back and see it but I finally feel like it's at a good point and people can see that it's a good concept." It's the brand's present carnation that has helped win them a legion of fans and become on of the industry's best kept secrets. And while MOP, as the team call it, was established by Maia Norman who continues to serve as creative director, it is Amy who has managed to articulate her easy sports wear vision.
Fall was all about textures for Guy Laroche designer Marcel Marongiu. The collection opened with a patent high shine pencil skirt which contrasted the black turtleneck it was teamed with that wasn't as basic as it seemed on first look with its rounded sleeves and molded form. As the collection progressed he introduced textured black wool and a handful of strong sequins towards the end.
The molded formed high neck tops sat along great chunky knits, tuxedo jackets, over-the-elbow leather gloves and great tailored trousers. The introduction of bright orange and gold sequins on dresses and knitwear offered a slightly softer aesthetic to what was otherwise a very stark and powerful collection.
