Costume National designer Ennio Capasa has always expressed an interest in the punk and grunge era and for the brand's fall 2012/13 collection, that definitely came through.
While the collection paid homage to the past with the plaid shirts, steel toe black boots and leather, the collection felt modern and a projection of what fans of the era will be wearing in the future. The tailoring and assortment of fabrics used on outerwear were full-on luxury. Clearly the Costume National punkster has grown up and made it big. The classic staples are still there but the fabrics have had a huge upgrade. The layering of shearling jackets over long line jackets and tunic tops gave a nod to the space age and the selection of plaid shirts that came with a leather panel along the top and on cuffs and collar made the wardrobe staple feel updated.
If - like us - you like a good bargain, you'll be pleased to know that Cocosa have launched yet another big sale featuring amazing pieces from brands like Calvin Klein, Temperley and Costume National. But there's a catch. The sale closes in 1hour so check it out now. Even if you're not a member, you can still take advantage of the sale by using out special invite code 'festival' to gain access.
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We've definitely got a soft spot for Ennio Capasa. Season upon season, he plays with Costume National's clean aesthetic but in different ways. This season shift dresses, jackets and coats came in strong shapes and simple lines on thermo-welded fabrics that gave the collection a futuristic feel.
The collection opened with a selection of monochromatic looks, like a white sleeveless knit layered over a black turtleneck and styled with tailored trousers. Dresses came with white and black panels, teamed with oversized clutches. As the collection progressed, Capasa introduced block colour, such as a blue two-piece trouser suit that Anna Dello Russo was sporting on the front row. Although the collection did feature head-to-toe colour looks in both blue and red, the majority of colour came blocked against black - that's perhaps the best way to introduce colour into your wardrobe if you're not typically colour-loving.
In true Anna Dello Russo style, the Vogue Japan editor is bang on trend. This season we've seen a lot of block colour, furthering the bright hues we saw last season at brands like Jil Sander. With that in mind, ADR brightened up a pair of black cigarette pants with this bright yellow single breasted jacket and red clutch bag to attend the Costume National show during Milan Fashion Week.
Now this is news we never expected to hear: Karl Lagerfeld is designing his own capsule collection for Macy's, set to hit 250 shops and retail online starting next September. This isn't the Kaiser's first foray into budget-friendlier collaborations. He worked up a range for H&M in 2004, and it sold out in four hours. However, Macy's hasn't drummed up the same buzz for its previous collaborations (with the likes of Rachel Roy, Tommy Hilfiger and Madonna) as H&M has (with designers like Alber Elbaz for Lanvin), and we're shocked to hear Macy's now drawing the highest of high-fashion teammates.
Lagerfeld's collection, however, is just the first in a series of new designer collabs with Macy's. After the Chanel designer will come Kinder Aggugini, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Costume National and Versace. Does H&M have some new, fresh competition now?
When Ennio Capasa set out to create his own minimalism for Spring, he did it with a bold voice and plenty of colour. The Costume National designer cycled from nude through a series of bold shades (turquoise, orange, red and blue) before finally settling back to black. Where silhouettes were boyish and sparse, Capasa made up for the simplicity with rich fabrics: couture-inspired, laser-cut and sometimes done in three layers of silk.
Capasa took his inspiration from a recent job with the band OK! Go, and accordingly had an element of what he calls "pop chic." We could imagine off-duty performers jetting around in the designer's nude leather trousers, then slipping into a sheer black top for stage night. But even for the non-pop stars among us, there are plenty of wearable pieces in the collection. And that, after all, is what a real design star shoots for.
Ennio Capasa had a grand mission when creating his C'N'C Costume National Spring collection: to revive the reputed fashion sense of his native country. "As a designer, when creating my younger line, I feel the need to collaborate to the rebirth of the Italian taste," he said. "This collection, designed for a youthful chic generation, stays away from excess because being essential and clean is something that has always been part of my creative process."
That translated into fluid lines, light fabrics (even when Capasa ventured into his prerequisite leather) and breezy silhouettes. In terms of colour, the designer opted for muted tones - white, neutrals, grey and tobacco - with a few jolts of lapis and coral red. It made for a fun, appropriately tasteful collection that hit all the points in Capasa's goal. And for those who still like to push the limits, he gave in with a crop top and leather trousers look that catch the notice of anyone on the streets - whether or not the onlooker possesses Italian taste.
