The Emanuel Ungaro collection this season was interesting, what with the experimentation of prints in a different way from what we've seen this season and the movement away from overt sex appeal, but the recent changes distracted away from that fact. The past few years have seen the house in the midst of changes after changes from Esteban Cotezar leaving due to the brand's new interest in celebrity endorsement and Lindsay Lohan's infamously terrible collection to Giles Deacon's recent departure after only two seasons as creative director. So the big question this week was who would take the bow after the show and of course, how would the collection fair as result of all the recent upheaval?
Jeanne Labib-Lamour emerged as the brand's new designer, unveiling herself at the end of the show but emphasising the collection was a team effort. And in light of the goings on, the team did a good job. Inspired by NASA aerial images, the show was dominated with interesting prints that appeared on dresses with subtle pleats, slinky jumpsuits with draping details and belted dresses and printed skirts. Although the silhouettes were often simple, the use of the prints felt interesting and definitely worth a closer look and were different from what we've seen elsewhere. The colour palette remained focused on aquatic tones but as the show progressed, Labib-Lamour introduced red into the prints, as well as on block coloured pieces like a plunge necked dress.
The collection worked but failed to excite me like the sexy looks that Deacon sent downt the runway during his short time at the house and a result of the changeover, the collection felt completely out of sync with the sexed up aesthetic that the British designer had been championing.