It's always worth paying attention to the Peter Som show. Last season's collection in particular, set the scene for the block colours and floral trouser suits and prints that we saw in all four cities but this season he decided to go in a different route. Rather than continuing his penchant for colour and edgy style that has won him a legion of fans, Som seemed to want to push his customer in a different direction this season.
Wrap jackets appeared with sculpted cocoon-shaped shoulders in brown and white in what felt like a nod to modern power dressing. Shape was also played with on peplum dresses that accentuated the female form whilst exuding power and confidence. Over the knee dresses often came in sheer organza with peek-a-book elements that were reminiscent of the Fall 2010 Givenchy collection but worked nonetheless. While dresses were the focus, outwerwear was particularly strong too and came in heavyweight fabrics with fur trims in rich wines and brown.
There was so much to love in Doo-Ri Chung's latest collection. While she is best known for her draping, season after season she continues to rework this signature and prove that she's not just a one trick pony.
Of course, the draping was there but this time it felt different. Her signature simple draped dresses appeared alongside new styles mixed with knitwear details on the sleeves or on the chest. Tops that came with a draped halter-neck style-wrap around the neck with knit sleeves were extremely elegant teamed with high waisted trousers with thick waistbands whilst also feeling inherently fresh.The introduction of olive tones on a leather and knitwear dress combo worked and added a modern feeling to the otherwise classic collection.
For Fall Carlie Cushnie and Michelle Ochs were inspired by Spanish thriller, 'The Skin Lives In', a film about a man who turns turns someone into a physical replication of his deceased wife. While the reference may seem far-fecthed, anyone that has followed the brand will quickly realise that the reference is actually quite apt.
The design duo are known for using tailoring on figure hugging dresses to enhance the female form. This season they reworked them by adding cut outs along the chest and in some cases on the hips in a way that was sexy but uncompromisingly powerful. As the show developed the pair also introduced some dresses with looser silhouettes in royal blue which helped break up the otherwise structured collection. The combination of blue and green on the looser fit dresses also helped add a flash of colour in what was otherwise a very dark collection.
A selection of nude dresses could possible represent the bandages - the repair work after the duo played with their scissors with the cut out dresses. This was partcularly true on a halter neck style worn by Erojna Ala.
The Fall 2011 Nicholas K collection was the perfect way to start the fall shows. Designer Nicholas Kunz really played with textures this season. A leather jacket came teamed with matching leather trousers styled with a a fur stole. Feminine printed silk tops and dresses came styled under jersey knitwear and crochet dresses appeared alongside the brand's signature parka jackets, but this time in shades of grey.
While the collection began with greys and blacks, towards the end Kunz played with a desert palette on heavy outerwear and a two-tiered fringed top came in gold and introduced a twenties flapper feeling to the otherwise Western-inspired collection.
Kimberly Ovitz is one designer from New York whose collections I always look forward to see. Despite establishing her brand only three years ago, Ovitz has quickly established a strong brand DNA. While this can often become an Achilles heel for young brands, Ovitz has managed to stay true to the signature pieces that her customers love her for whilst introducing enough new elements each season to keep them satisfied.
Models came down in the runway to Nancy Sinatra's 'Bang Bang' in the black-heavy colour palette that Ovitz is known for on looks like a leather jacket styled over sheer asymmetric blouse and black textured skinny jeans. The loose clean silhouettes were the same as usual on maxi dresses and sheer tops but this season the designer introduced some fitted styles like a black bandage mini dress with sheer sleeves. The strength of the collection was definitely in the details, particularly the use of human hair fringing that came on thick belts over maxi dresses and along the sleeves of outerwear.