Headed by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and Meadham Kirchoff, the glam grunge look has had a cult following that is not going away anytime soon. The anti-trend mixes black deconstructed clothes with leather accessories for a tough directional style. For SS09, Demeulemeester took inspiration from a caged bird, with delicate chains hanging from the models' faces. Floor-length black skirts and dresses were teamed with leather waistcoats and tailored cut-out jackets.
This trend is all about street style, so it comes as no surprise that we found many a doting Demeulemeester fan channelling the look. The zebra wedge boots and tartan bag add a personal touch, whilst the black maxi-dress and leather jacket are classic glam grunge. Sheer fabrics and cut out detailing will take this through to summer, but until then layer up that leather.
Joe Zee is great at putting a fresh spin on the tips-and-tricks articles in magazines, to keep them, well, actually helpful and fun. Now, ELLE has introduced his Fall A to Zee online guide, which points out the creative director's favourite new styles, letter by letter. (You can view it online here, and we would like to point out that the graphic design = adorable.)
Naturally, we were curious to see what the ever-vocal Mr Zee would pick as his top trends in clothing, accessories, beauty products and more. So we'll give you a taste of our favourites. J, for Jill and Jennifer, stands for the Joan Jett rock look, and N, for Naomi and Nic, is for grunge detailing like "nuts and bolts". Keji gets kisses with K (lip details on shoes, tops, everything). Sophie finds surrealism with S, and H is for houndstooth - and our very own Holly.
Find your letter and your style, and let us know if you like it. We bet you will.
Make yourself a playlist of Garbage, Hole and The Cranberries (Zombie only) and prepare for your autumn dose of fashion. Designers ranging from Alexander Wang (obviously) to Mark Fast to Todd Lynn have gone down a dark and dingy path, turning out fringe, leather and attitude for all. Remember biker shorts? Yeah, they're back. But this time, grunge is less about Nirvana and more about sci-fi. It's technical, and it's harsh, and we love it.
Nico D is all about wearability - and we love that. Chunky knits in classic shapes were styled with oversized leather bags, trilby and khaki trousers for ultimate comfort.
Tailoring was a strength of the show. Jackets, with oversized collars in satin, were boxy and structured with angular shapes at the front, drawing on Didonna's interest in geometry this season.
Evening wear was strong, tied in by a theme of sequins that adroned black turtlenecks, mens tuxedos and floor length evening gowns.
Geometric shapes was the source of inspiration for the show but was not clear in the collection. Individual looks worked well, but toverall the show lacked cohesion. The designer served us with a bit of leather and grunge, some sequins a la Ashish and some casual urban wearable looks rather than committing to one theme and seeing it through. Styling was also inconsistent, starting off very strong and losing it's punch towards the last few looks where a beautiful black knee length dress was teamed with pink fish net tights.
Jill: What did you think of the Horace show? Naomi: I loved it. It's funny how everyone is doing the whole 90s-grunge thing, when Horace has been doing it for the last how many seasons. Jill: Did you go last year? Naomi: Yes. Jill: How was the show last year? Naomi: Think Alexander Wang but with a British stamp. A bit more dirty. You're a Horace newbie. What did you think of the show? Jill: I loved the way they used neon but made it look really gritty and dirty. Naomi: Totally. At first I was scared when I saw the highlighter pen-coloured jumpers but the styling was so good, it just worked. Jill: Leather, leather, leather. Naomi: I know. I don't know what I'm craving more, leather or fur? Jill: Didn't you love the way they used the blonde-haired, blue-eyed model for the look with the Grim Reaper-like cape? Naomi: I was thinking that too.