All images by Naomi Mdudu/The Fash Pack

Damir Doma is one of those young designers showing in Paris that you know will be around in years to come. Since establishing his label back in 2011, he's tapped into the dark but romantic aesthetic that has seen customers flocking to the likes of Ann Demuelemeester for years and this season felt like his eureka moment. While his past collection have shown promise, there's always been something missing but for S/S13 it seemed like he'd reflected on this and really narrowed in on what his customer wants.

The clothes were good, really good. Following on from his exploration with his current penchant for the feminine form, just about everything came with an emphasis on the waist: high waisted silk slouched pants, leather dresses and even bomber jackets. Like many designers, Doma was interested in proportions too, particularly on outerwear, which were, by far, some of the strongest pieces in the collection.

Another strong development this season was the colour palette. His usual muted palette of white and black were there but this season he introduced emerald blue and green tones on silks that had more than a bit of a Haider Ackermann twist about them, which isn't necessarily bad thing considering that the designer has been heralded as one of the best colourists since Yves Saint Laurent.

More than anything, the collection was the epitome of practicality and tapped into this new concern for fuctionality. With that in mind, clutch bags were oversized to make sure that you can fit all of your essentials in and while he decided to carry on with heels, they were sturdy and definitely a departure from the styles we've become accustomed to. The loose fit of the trousers and the oversized proportions too, will definitely go down a treat with his fan base and will no doubt get his some new fans too.

See the full collection after the jump

This season's new height (or lack thereof) started at Haider Ackermann's S/S12 show. It's not often that the word 'trend' and 'Haider Ackermann' are used in the same sentence, for he's amongst the rare breed of designs so attune to his own vision that tapping into any big trend is never more than a mere coincidence. Nevertheless, the backless brogues that he showed alongside his low slung masculine trousers last season has had a serious ripple effect. The fact that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have rarely been spotted without them is a pretty good indicator too.

Don't get me wrong, flats aren't anything new. I mean, what woman doesn't own a ballet flat or three but these styles are different. The feeling is far from conservative and is definitively not only the preserve of women who work in the city or want to be 'taken seriously'. Just like the clothes for fall, it seems that designers are becoming more attune to what women actually need, as opposed to simply pumping out killer heel after killer heel as has been too often been the case. With the world out there being tough enough right, being held back by your shoes of all things doesn't make sense anymore.

While I've always been a sucker to heels - I blame Victoria Beckham's book 'That Extra Half Inch - the idea of a good pair of flats has been growing on me. What with the shows just around the corner, the need to find something practical that takes me from shows to appointments and the odd event or two has become my mission and thankfully, there's a lot of good styles out there. Christian Louboutin, who has been one of the major influencers of the ever increasing height of heels, has even succumbed to the charm of the flat offering a really fun, quirky pair in tartan with studded black toe caps. Charlotte Olympia's kitty loafers have persuaded even the most die hard heels fans to go low and even Chloé have created a great fringed pair that are the perfect nod to this season's masculine feel. My style of choice? A pair of gold chunky brogues from Marni that will I know I'll wear to death.

As the above names show, everyone is doing it and it isn't just the big labels either. ASOS probably have the best selection around from the more classic ballet flat styles to cool loafers and timeless brogues.

Are you convinced?

SHOP THE EDIT: 1. Tartan loafers, £545, Christian Louboutin at Net-A-Porter; 2. Fringed loafers, £505, Chloe at Net-A-Porter; 3. Glitter loafers, £295, Jimmy Choo at Net-A-Porter; 4. Velvet covered leather loafers, £420, Miu Miu at Net-A-Porter; 5. Metallic leather brogues, £370, Marni at Net-A-Porter; 6. Leather and velevt creepers, £310, McQ at Net-A-Porter; 7. Loafer shoes, £38, ASOS;  8. Tassled loafers, £110, Bass Washington at ASOS

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Tilda Swinton

Last year Chanel put on a show with their Indian-inspired resort collection at their usual spot at the Grand Palais but today they took their latest collection to the Palace of Versailles. Chanel campaign girl Alice Dellal sat front row at the show along with the usual faces like Vanessa Paradis and Caroline Sieber. Tilda Swinton also attended along with Haider Ackermann.

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Speculation about who will take the reigns at Dior is the question that just won't go away, no matter how much we want it to. While Haider Ackermann's name was firmly amongst the front running candidates to begin with, he quickly slipped off the radar as new names like Sarah Burton and Marc Jacobs were thrown into the mix. In a recent interview with Vanessa Friedman, Ackermann suggested that we shouldn't rule him out completely.

'There are two houses I would be interested in…two where I feel there is shared sensibility, and I could bring something else of myself to the house, which isn’t expressed in my own line,' he told the Financial Times editor also touching on 'couture' in particular leading many to believe that he was taking about Dior. And the partnership would make sense. Ackermann continues to be a force to be reckoned with, with his own eponymous line so taking the reigns at a big house seems like the next sensible step.

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Haider Ackermann has long been recognised for creating beautiful clothes but this season, rather than being admired from afar he showed pieces that are ready to be worn. He took the issue on board this season and with great results

In Ackermann's world, accessibility does not mean compromising on beauty and craftsmanship. As always, the beauty of the collection was in the 360 degree details whether that be a subtle draping on the top of a classic long sleeved maxi dress or the intricate pleats and darting on the back of jackets. The simple maxi dresses and skirts teamed with great motorcycle jackets will no doubt go down a treat with buyers and unlike his past work, this collection felt like a complete wardrobe. It wasn't just about his killer tailoring on jackets. This collection was full of great trousers like a high waisted wide leg pair, pieces like a signature black over-the-knee length dress with a subtle plunge neck which was as sensual as it was powerful and a good selection of knits that would be a welcomed addition to any woman's wardrobe.

But don't worry - the Ackermann signatures were there. His use of colour continues to be second to none and this season's offerings were inspired by the leaves falling outside his Antwerp home and translated onto pumpkin tones and deep reds alongside rich purples and royal blue. His signature peplum silhouette was there too and came in either heavy leather styles or with the thick black leather belts that have come synonymous with his brand. Despite this being a big trend this season, Ackermann's take on the style cannot be rivalled.

See the collection after the jump

Yesterday a preview of an interview with Karl Lagerfeld in his guest-edited issue of Metro had us all talking. After calling Adele 'fat' and Russian men 'ugly', the interview definitely was on the controversial side. The issue was officially released today and includes stories on Azealia Banks, the singer that has grabbed everyone's attention and who performed at the designer's home last month, alongside stories on Carine Roitfeld and Haider Ackermann too. That said, it is another interview with Kaiser Karl himself that is the instant draw.

On being human:

I look the part. But I’m not that human, hmm? But more down to earth than me you will never find. You cannot be more down to earth.

Read more snippets from the interview after the jump

Earlier this month we reported that Marc Jacobs moving to Dior was increasingly looking unlikely and now sources confirm that the move is definitely not happening.

LVMH reportedly approached Jacobs back in July after Bill Gaytten's less than impressive couture collection for the house and while Jacobs' move to Dior seemed secure, negotiations fell apart over money and Jacobs wanting to moving his whole Louis Vuitton team to Dior with him. As a result, a source close to Jacobs has confirmed that the designer "declined" the job for good earlier this month, as we reported.

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