When it comes to haute couture, the first brand that springs to mind is Christian Dior, but unfortunately the brand did not live up to their reputation yesterday. The collection marked the first time in 15 years that John Galliano was not at the brand's helm and it showed.
Although the venue and customers on the front row were the same, the first look - a multicoloured cape with one rose on the shoulder teamed with a black and white jacket and full bodied skirt - was a significant step in a different direction. Eighties pop art and colour was everywhere appearing on cropped jackets and dresses in organza that lacked the refinement that you would expect from a Dior couture show. The rose motif on the first look appeared throughout inspired by the work of art directors like Jean Paul Goude and Italian architect, Ettore Sottsass.
A combination of Dita von Teese, Isabella Blow tributes and a global recession that's left people looking back to days gone by have helped reintroduce a touch of class known as the hat. And thank goodness, because it gives people all the more reason to talk about great creative minds like Justin Smith.
Justin's bespoke millinery line, J Smith Esquire, fuses tried-and-tested detailing with modern shapes, and I would love to see the piece pictured below out on the streets. Stephen Jones is a fan of the range, and that iD styling award pretty much speaks for itself.
What's most surprising? Justin only finished his millinery course in 2005. I guess becoming creative director of Toni & Guy was time-consuming.
Here, Justin shares how it all took shape with the Fash Pack.
What made you get into hats from hairstyling, and what reaction did people give you when you announced your switch? I used to do lots of avant-garde shows with the hairdressing, so it was quite a natural step. I went on a millinery course to help me with the avant-garde hair, and I had no call to do collections anymore as I left Toni & Guy (who I used to do them for).