In an interview with The Guardian, British Vogue's Alexandra Shulman reveals the secrets behind choosing a cover girl, although she admits that there is no set science behind the agonising decision. "It's difficult to say what will sell" Shulman explains, "Kate Moss sells well for us but then we tend to play to our strengths and put her on the September cover - it's better to use your ammunition on a big issue rather than battling against a difficult seasonal sensation".
Despite describing Moss as a safety cover girl, Shulman remembers the 2003 Vogue cover with the waif-like rock chick styled as David Bowie's iconic Aladdin Sane sleeve as a "complete catastrophe". Other things to avoid include dirty colours such as mustard or aubergine, and high fashion pieces - "a real thumbs down". "The evidence suggests that black cover girls don't sell as well as white cover girls," she admits with regret, although Glamour's Jo Elvin disagrees with such narrow conventions.
Stuart Stockdale did what he does best this week at Jaeger. The collection had a strong equestrian feel, evident in the hats, riding boots, fedoras and capes as well as the chain detail on the selection of bags that came in mustard and camel. This reflected the designer being drawn to the "mixture between urban and rural" this season.
What particularly stood out about the collection was the autumnal colour palette, especially in light of the abundance of designers that have opted for colour as a sign of optimism this season. "It was definitely a very Jaeger colour palette," he told me backstage. Structured jackets, leggings, fur and knitwear all came in musty greys, blacks and shades ranging from nude to coffee, which is very much "a part of the Jaeger DNA," he said.
Although Stockdale focused on tailoring this season, particularly on the trousers and outwerwear - such as a jacket that deceptively looked like a coat from the front but was actually cropped at the back - he did offer us a softer silhouette, too. "I definitely wanted there to be mix between tailoring and something a bit more relaxed," he said after the show. The knitwear, styled with cropped trousers were slouchy but chic and a grey voluminous loose fitted coat with thin black panels across the front was perfect for a relaxed work look.
Outside the muted colour palette, Stockdale also presented checks in red, white and brown on skirts and, like many other designers this season, he presented his take on the blouse. His interpretation came in off-white with cut-outs at the back.
Already on the wish list of Glamour editor Jo Elvin is a midnight-blue velvet dress, which will undoubtedly be a hit at retail.