Like last season, design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi played with tailoring but with a Preen twist adding an interesting interpretation of this seasons's minimalism, which the brand already do so well. A grey belted single breasted jacket styled with what looked like embroidered cropped trousers stood out for their strong tailoring but femininity; as did a long grey wasicoat styled over a grey dress with Isamic tile detail along the neckline.
This season's fresh and airy colour palette was dominant but the duo did offer some flashes of colour most notably on a electric blue tuxedo and black appeared on simple tops tucked into pleated skirts and on sheer dresses. Although at first glance the collection looked minimal, it quickly became clear that you had to sit up and pay attention because on a second look, each piece had a unique detail from a intricate tiling effect inspired by a recent trip to Egypt or beuatiful pleating on high waisted skirts.
Justin Thornoton and Thea Bregazzi, the duo behind Preen, have been busy and aren't planning to slow down. The past year has seen them collaborate with Azza Fahmy and Gieves and Hawkes and in a recent interview with The Cut the designers let slip that they're now looking into launching a childrenswear line - Mini Preen.
"We're taking our time with it. We have a daughter who's nearly two, and Thea would like to literally do tiny versions of our clothes — like Mini Preen, minus the cocktail dresses," Thoronton said. I want to design really cool, practical, easy pieces. Since having Fauve, I realized there is just not that much great children's wear out there," Bregazzi told The Cut.
A new collaboration between Preen and Gieves & Hawkes could mean that the celeb-magnet label (whose fans include Gwyneth Paltrow, Rachel Bilson and Thandie Newton) could give its customers something to wear to work. Although we're used to bright, form-enhancing dresses from Preen, now the label is churning out jackets and tailored suits.
Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi explained the partnership: "We wanted it to be masculine with a feminine twist, we thought it was about time we gave our Preen girl something to wear to work. We have developed great cocktail dresses, great Sunday knits, cool summer silks - but had never really ventured into cool workwear. We thought about it in terms of 'husband' jackets, that chic yet traditional city man."
Harold Tilman has worked wonders this season, pulling all of the big British designers back to London Fashion Week to celebrate the events 25th anniversary. Unfortunately, he didn't manage to lure one of our favourites, Preen.
"We love New York and we love London," Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi explained told Style.com shortly before their Spring collection hit the runway, "but showing in New York has vastly increased our business internationally and in the U.K."
The show experimented with last season's 90's grunge with a hint of romanticism, featuring a dress heavy collection full of holographic prints, ruffle details and a lot of textures. A bandage element appeared on dresses that were subtly seductive on black dresses.
Topshop opens in America tomorrow (more on that later), and coinciding with mayhem in Manhattan will be the launch of two designer capsule collections you won't want to miss. Preen and Jonathan Saunders - both veteran Topshop collaborators - have made pieces for the high-street chain. So if you're looking for bold colours or something sculptural, you know where to go.
