While the collection paid homage to the past with the plaid shirts, steel toe black boots and leather, the collection felt modern and a projection of what fans of the era will be wearing in the future. The tailoring and assortment of fabrics used on outerwear were full-on luxury. Clearly the Costume National punkster has grown up and made it big. The classic staples are still there but the fabrics have had a huge upgrade. The layering of shearling jackets over long line jackets and tunic tops gave a nod to the space age and the selection of plaid shirts that came with a leather panel along the top and on cuffs and collar made the wardrobe staple feel updated.
Over the last few seasons Raf Simons has made a real statement with colour at Jil Sander womens wear and yesterday his use of black was just as striking. The colour dominated the whole collection appearing on everything from tops teamed with tailored trousers to gloves and trenchcoats that felt like an ode to 'The Matrix'.
Who the Jil Sander man was this season was unknown, as Simons was reluctant to explain backstage instead insisting that he is anyone you want him to be. What we do know is that the man is powerful and is not tied to a specific age. The beautifully tailored suits was something you could imagine on a middle aged banker while the whale printed knitwear that popped towards the end and the round neck leather tops had a youthful feeling about them.
“We wanted the men’s wear to be shown in line with other men’s collections," Lim explained. "Showing in New York [in February] meant we were selling the collection before it was presented officially to press and buyers, so the main reason was to realign with the calendar.”
In the past two decades, men’s fashion underwent a profound yet silent revolution. There was the urge to scream a message of change, because in the Eighties and Nineties fashion — or anything more innovative — was perceived as something for gay men or weirdos. It’s not like that anymore. Men crave fashion and buy and change their clothes based on the occasion. For us, the big break happened at the end of the Nineties, when we started working with David Beckham, a hot, straight man with a family and kids.
Said Stefano Gabbana
Sometimes it’s embarrassing when you see couples out and the girl has clearly taken so much time over her appearance and the guy just looks bad. And the girls don’t seem to mind! Men get lazy. It’s important for a guy to figure out what works for him and then stick with it. Most men can’t steer themselves when it comes to style. They need a female to guide them. That’s a fact.
Via The Cut
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were spotted in New York this week shooting their men's campaign at Mulberry Street Bar in Little Italy. Unfortunately, onlookers didn't have a chance of seeing what was going on. According to passersby, the blinds were drawn and the bar was closed causing people to speculate about who they were shooting.