Costume National designer Ennio Capasa has always expressed an interest in the punk and grunge era and for the brand's fall 2012/13 collection, that definitely came through.

While the collection paid homage to the past with the plaid shirts, steel toe black boots and leather, the collection felt modern and a projection of what fans of the era will be wearing in the future. The tailoring and assortment of fabrics used on outerwear were full-on luxury. Clearly the Costume National punkster has grown up and made it big. The classic staples are still there but the fabrics have had a huge upgrade. The layering of shearling jackets over long line jackets and tunic tops gave a nod to the space age and the selection of plaid shirts that came with a leather panel along the top and on cuffs and collar made the wardrobe staple feel updated.

Over the last few seasons Raf Simons has made a real statement with colour at Jil Sander womens wear and yesterday his use of black was just as striking. The colour dominated the whole collection appearing on everything from tops teamed with tailored trousers to gloves and trenchcoats that felt like an ode to 'The Matrix'.

Who the Jil Sander man was this season was unknown, as Simons was reluctant to explain backstage instead insisting that he is anyone you want him to be. What we do know is that the man is powerful and is not tied to a specific age. The beautifully tailored suits was something you could imagine on a middle aged banker while the whale printed knitwear that popped towards the end and the round neck leather tops had a youthful feeling about them.