As much as the clothes were typically strong, at the Helmut Lang Fall 2012 show all eyes were on the shoes. Even Style.com's Nicole Phelps was critical of the brand's 'low slung, inverted pleat, full-legged trousers,' she wrote. 'It'd be a shame to cover up those killer over-the-knee boots,' and killer they certainly were. We all have Tiffany Tuttle, co-founder and creative director of LD Tuttle, to thank.
'I had met their stylist, Alistair McKimm, the previous fashion week in New York when he came to take a look at my collection,' she told me when asked about how the collaboration came about. 'He thought it might work well for me to work on the shoes for the next show so we all sat down and talked after the craziness of fashion week was over.' The result was a collection of pieces inspired by designers' Nicole and Michael Colovos' interest in HBO series, 'Games of Thrones'. 'They wanted something very powerful and strong looking but with clean, minimal lines,' she explained. 'Eventually we ended up with the 'knife' wedge that is on the boots and the streamlined shape of the over-the-knee boots, which have elasticated leather to enable them to fit smoothly, were a cool canvas to use for the prints.'
Nicole and Michael Colovos' sent out a strong collection yesterday at Helmut Lang. It's by no means an easy feat dealing with a brand that has such a strong DNA and sadly that showed last season. While the show marked a much welcomed edition to the New York Fashion Week calendar, many criticised the collection for being repetitive and for failing to delve out of the brand's signatures but this season was different. The design duo took these points on board and produced a collection that will satisfy the buyers and customers that will always buy into their classic pieces, whilst also introducing enough new elements to keep things fresh and interesting.
Asymmetric funnel neck jackets were business as usual but on some, the pair introduced fur details along the body that felt more luxurious than what we have seen in the past. Their classic blazers came without lapels and were updated with armadillo-stamped leather sleeves which also appeared on black leather trousers and on a beautiful belted biker jacket that came teamed with a black maxi skirt. Knitwear was another strong point. Styles ranged from chunky and oversized to some of the thin web-like variety. Colour palette-wise, the collection was largely black but a good selection of black and red volcanic like prints that came towards the red helped break it up.
For their Spring/Summer offerings, Nicole and Michael Colovos served us with all of the key pieces that customers know and love from Helmut Lang. Their classic leather jacket appeared in cream and their signature blazers featured throughout. It seemed that the duo are expecting next spring to be a cold one because the opening looks were full of jumpsuits with cowl necks and tops layered under jackets that might be better suited to the temperature now as we begin to move into Autumn.