You can always rely on Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker to put on a show. At the Elle Style Awards on Monday, Parker told me there would be a lot to look forward to in the brand's fall show, and he wasn't wrong.

First thing's first: the show officially had the best soundtrack we've heard in a long time. The first model stepped out on to the runway in black mini dress walking to Nicki Minaj's 'Dungeon Dragaon', which later turned into Lil' Kim's 'Lighter's Up' and other songs by Notorious BIG and Busta Rhymes. The collection mainly consisted of short off-the-shoulder LBDs with cutouts on the back. The colour palette was predominantly dark, coming in blacks and greys on knitted halter-neck dresses, but the duo did introduce some colour at the start of the show with a handful of purple looks to break it up. The standout look was a pair of black cigarette pants teamed with a Victorian blouse with huge accentuated shoulders.

When you attend a Pam Hogg show, you know that it's going to be full of energy and will draw the London 'It' scene. Case in point: Siouxsie Sioux opened the show with a dramatic round tulle headpiece and short black lace bodysuit to a huge round of applause - Jamie Winestone, Jefferson Hack, Peaches Geldof and PPQ's Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker all sat front-row.

The collection was full of all of the pieces you would expect from Hogg. Bod-con bodysuits mainly came in shorter styles in black lace and were often styled with a long train that sat on the shoulders on leather panels. Where the styles were full length, they came completely sheer with only gold panels on the breasts and between the legs to preserve the models' modesty.

Tapping into this season's micro trend, we saw a lot of leather arms on dresses, particularly on bod-con styles in red and blue with leather detail also appearing across the shoulders.

Although the collection is not for everyone, Hogg added a lot of creativity to the London Fashion Week schedule, in a season when most designers have opted to play it safe.

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PPQ's young good-time girl has grown up for fall, if only in terms of the materials she uses to build her wardrobe. Designers Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux have decided to outfit their clients in brocade and, yes, the occasional draperies-appropriate tassel this season. The duo's silhouettes aren't unusual (simple shifts, A-line skirts, trenches to complete a look), but we wonder if the brand's clientele - the Pixie Geldof set - is used to anything so staid.

That's not to say we didn't find pieces we liked. An Audrey Hepburn-style jumper and skirt set in all black caught our eye, and though the ornate fabrics have already drawn criticism, we found our interest piqued. After all, the PPQ girl usually doesn't give a damn what anyone else thinks. So if she wants to walk around like Scarlett O'Hara, dressed in a tapestry, then she'll still manage to out-dress everyone at her party.

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Esprit is one brand that has been on the radar for years, never really enjoying a moment to shine until now. The brand has undergone somewhat of a revamp and to prove just how much of a worthy competitor it has become, it has enlisted the help (and beauty) of Daisy Lowe and Julia Restoin Roitfeld to take centre stage in its new ad campaigns.

Daisy, who has been clocking up some serious modelling jobs in the past few years, most notably walking for PPQ and Vivienne Westwood, appearing in a string of editorials in Vogue and W magazines, amongst others, and starring in a number of sexy print ads for Agent Provocateur, was a sound choice for the edc Esprit brand, which is inspired by art, music and pop culture. Shot just outside LA in a car cemetery by Barnaby Roper, the images show Lowe in the foreground dressed in skinny jeans, white top and cropped blazer, which complement her dark hair and porcelain skin. In the background, we also see her boyfriend Will Cameron, who also just so happens to be the face of the menswear edc line, 'striking a pose' and generally looking cool.

Julia's shoot, for the Casual range, is set in similar surroundings, well sunny California at least, and sees her and her model troupe strutting down the road in the middle of the desert. Dressed in cowboy hats, waist coats, shorts and checked shirts, Esprit has proved that it can do the preppy and fresh look just as well as its competitors, and both ads make you long to join the Esprit fun-loving, free-spirited and seriously good-looking gang. And then there's Julia's steely gaze, so piercing and captivating, we struggled to focus on the rest of the image. Obviously with her fashion royalty heritage and a portfolio which includes being the face of Black Orchid, Tom Ford's first fragrance, in 2007 and Jil Sander earlier this year, we were quite impressed with Esprit for managing to get her (and Daisy, too) on board. We're loving the new-look Esprit ranges and models, of course - keep up the good work!

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Already one of the hottest labels around at the moment, it seems that PPQ are set on keeping their cool status, and if their new collaboration with Adidas is anything to go by, we'll be seeing a lot more of Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker. Shot by renowned photographer Rankin, the collection sees a fabulous mash up of jumper dresses styled with brothel creepers, leather look beauties and striped, Adidas trefoil logo tops.

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Image credit to i.models.com

The fashion industry has become accustomed to catfights surrounding the catwalk, with model disputes being a regular occurence on the fashion scene. However when the lack of demand for black models causes two of Britain's hottest young things - Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn - to turn from friends to frienemies, it becomes apparent that something needs to change.

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Dree Hemingway of Elite Models surprised London Fashion Week attendees this week as she made an appearance on the catwalk. She had been rumoured to walk for Calvin Klein at New York Fashion Week but this fell through, so it must have been a coup for her to be asked to open the star-studded Topshop show which saw a host of celebrities lining the front row, and closed the House of Holland show.

As one of a few well known models such as Sessilee Lopez, Anna de Rijk and supermodel Naomi Campbell, who strutted down the PPQ, Burberry and Issa runways, respectively, Hemingway can surely pat herself on the back for her LFW achievement. With more ad campaigns, acting roles and movie releases in the pipelines, it looks like 2009 / 2010 is set to be a busy year for her.

Those worried about the race balance of models in the fashion industry, turn your heads to PPQ. Designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker have just staged the first-ever all-black show at London Fashion Week.

"During our castings for this show one gorgeous black girl after the other turned up and they just looked so amazing, we decided to snap up all of the best black girls for the show," Molyneaux told Grazia. "All the models today have been so great, calm, no tantrums, no hissy fits, it's been totally chilled."

Added Parker: "It’s not something we really considered. We just wanted to find the most beautiful models and those were the best ones."

Critics have been saying it's just a ploy for extra coverage, but we give the label props, and so does Michelle Williams, who saw the show front-row. "I don’t want to turn this into a race issue but I know this is what people are going to talk about," she said. "And it’s great that it’s happened here. I thought they were really regal."