As Robbie Myers so rightly told Eric Wilson of the New York Times, Prabal Gurung definitely set the bar for New York Fashion Week today. Aside from Peter Som's stellar collection yesterday, call it early days but nothing has really wowed me so far this week but that changed after seeing Gurung's S/S12 offerings this morning.
This season his collection began after teaming up with London based graphic designer, Nobuyoshi Araki, on the digital flower print that dominated his collection. “I knew I wanted to incorporate themes of Nobuyoshi Araki’s art, specifically from a series called ‘Sensual Flowers," he told journalists after the show. “Like Araki’s work, everything is very pretty from afar, but up close there is something subversive about it.” And he was right. At first glance the floaty printed dresses, which largely sat just above the knee, petered on the romantic side until you got a closer glimpse of the sexy sheer panels that instantly gave the pieces a sexy, assertive edge. The slicked back hair and dark purple lips definitely added to this strong feeling.
Along with the floral print - which is quickly becoming a big trend this season - was a paint splash-like print that featured on beautifully tailored trousers, which, one occasion came teamed with a boxy structured tuxedo jacket with white lapels and also on drop waisted dresses with asymmetric hemlines. The cocoon shaped sleeves on printed tops were a subtle version of the Stella McCartney style we saw last season and, teamed with trousers and jackets with clean clinical lines, it reminded me of something that wouldn't go amiss at Balenciaga.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize is a big one but just to make it a bit more interesting this year, they've decided to treat the finalists to a bonus trip to Paris.
According to The Cut, Tommy Hilfiger is sponsoring the program, which enables these designers to show their collections in Paris to ensure that their collections are seen by those press and buyers who couldn't make it to New York Fashion Week. The lucky ten designers are Prabal Gurung, Sophie Theallet, Simon Spurr, Billy Reid, Eddie Borgo, Monique Péan, Ohne Titel, George Esquivel, Gregory Parkinson, and Pamela Love.
The show will take place on October 1.
Like Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung is a designer that has developed a distinct - and much loved - style aesthetic without compromising on all things business. This week the CFDA winner announced that he's decided to dip his toe into advertising by launching a web only campaign. This was definitely a deliberate and conscious decision. It's no secret that circulation numbers continue to decline for print magazines so focusing on online, especially as a young brand, is a good move.
“The power of the Internet is enormous and the reach that it has is unparalleled,” told Fashionista. “It’s important for brands to think outside the box and do a different kind of branding. It’s particularly important for brands that do not have a budget for advertising to use the internet to re-excite the customers.” Despite the decision, he's not rulling out launching a print campaign in the future. “I would love to release a campaign in print,” he said. “Who knows at that point what I’ll be inspired by but I know it will have a unique voice. I guess we’ll have to see!”
The New York fashion industry isn't too happy with Michelle Obama at the moment. The First Lady has pushed the National Design Awards back from the middle of July to September 13, which bang in the middle of fashion week.
The problem? Many of this years honorees like Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung will be preparing for their shows so won't be able to attend. Gilles Mendel is the only honoree who has pushed his show date back in order to attend. "First Lady Michelle Obama sure knows her designer labels, but her handlers must have misplaced her fashion calendar," WWD wrote.
Last night the Lincoln Centre in New York played home to the 2011 CFDA Awards. As we knew, Marc Jacobs picked up the Lifetime Achievement Award, Phoebe Philo was presented with the International Award and Lady Gaga collected the big 'Fashion Icon' gong at last night's ceremony.
Other big winners of the night include the Proenza Schouler duo who picked up the award for womenswear designer of the year. Accessories designer of the year went to Alexander Wang, Menswear Designer of the Year went to Michael Bastian and Eddie Borgo recieved the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design.
I feel extremely blessed that I’m in that lineup of designers that I’ve admired all this while...it’s unbelievable. It isn’t something I was expecting...I’m just going to say I was very humbled, grateful and thankful. I don’t want to say more.
Image via The Cut
Bernard Arnault of LVMH has said that Dior won't be hasty naming John Galliano's replacement, WWD is reporting that advisers have compiled a list of suggested successors. Among them: Riccardo Tisci, Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung and Sarah Burton.
This comes after false rumours that Tisci had already accepted the position; he's supposedly the favorite of Delphine Arnault, Dior's deputy managing director and daughter of Bernard. As for Burton, WWD reports that if she dresses Kate Middleton for this month's royal wedding, her chances will shoot through the roof. WWD says: "According to a source, Bernard Arnault is transfixed by royalty, and would be keen to launch Dior alongside the next-generation couple, just as Princess Diana helped catapult the image of the brand in 1995 when she toted a Lady Dior bag and, a year later, donned a midnight-blue, bias-cut Dior gown by Galliano to attend the Costume Institute gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art."