Riccardo Tisci's last few collections at Givenchy haven't been rocked my boat. The embellishment that he showed for SS11 was beautiful, but felt like a step too far away from the signatures that we've all come to expect and love from him and last season, the accessories were definitely stronger the clothes. For SS13, though, Tisci was back on a track.
Like many other collections this season, everything was stripped back and the focus was on the clothes. The muted colour palette helped to show the pieces off as opposed to bright colours and embellishment, which designers have been known to use as a distraction. The lines were clean and modern and the black looks in particular tapped into the religious undertones that Tisci is known for; that and the metal collars that the models were wearing that felt like a fashion version of a priest's collar, of course.
Miranda Kerr in US Harper's Bazaar September 2012 by Terry Richardson
With the new season accessories quickly lining shop floors, it's hard to talk about winter shoes without mentioning these boots. For the past few winters the ankle boot has dominated but thanks to Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, for A/W12 the knee high boot has reclaimed it's position as the staple style of choice.
US Harper's Bazaar made the point clear in their September issue, showing Miranda Kerr striped down in nothing but the boots. The lesson to be learnt? As much as there's a lot to be excited about clothes-wise this season, it's now time to tap into those 'love forever' statement accessories and if you have the money to spare, these are definitely the way to go.
Inspired by the 1950s silhouettes of Bettie Page and 1970s French horseback riding, the boots with their heel hiding sheaths, captured everyone's imagination when they were included in the brand's pre-fall collection and were cemented as the 'IT' style of the season when they re-appeared in their equestrian-themed Fall 2012 show. So far, the boots have already sold out on Net-A-Porter several times despite the £1,405 price tag so if you want to get in on the action, get in fast.
Karl Lagerfeld's collaboration with Carine Roitfeld on 'The Little Black Jacket: Chanel's Classic Revisted' is the partnership that we've all been excited for. So far the brand have teased us by taking us behind-the-scenes of the shoot for the book, as well as making us a fly on the wall at the recent exhibition for the book in Tokyo in that video that they released earlier this week.
Yesterday they launched thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com, an 'e-exhibition', which showcases everyone from Georgia May Jagger to Olivier Theyskens wearing the iconic black Chanel tweed jacket styled by Roitfeld. The concept really works. The diverse cast for the book is illustrative of the timeless quality of the piece and its ability to transcend generations and styles. The book is available online on Amazon for only $39 but in the meantime, have a glimpse at some of my favourite images from the book.
Yesterday Kate Middleton joined the Queen on the start of her Diamond Jubilee tour and stepped out in this peplum jacket styled over a dress both by LK Bennett. The peplum silhouette was everywhere for S/S12 - think Vera Wang and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy - and showed no sign of going away in the fall shows too and definitely won't now the Duchess has sported it. That said, though, the look didn't work. While the silhouette is designed to create the illusion of curves, it actually only emphasised just how thin Middleton really is.
While most designers are showing the peplum silhouettes that Riccardo Tisci showed last season at Givenchy, he's already moved on. Last night he showed a collection heavily dominated by equestrian touches. It featured a lot more trousers than he's shown in the past in a simple jodhpurs style and leather popped up throughout on everything from riding boots to turtleneck dresses and cropped shorts. Suedes and furs on outerwear was introduced, though, to help break the leather up and add an interesting additional layer.
Where the start of the collection was very strong and masculine with the boxy cuts and tailoring, the end was a lot more feminine. The flash of a red subtly pleated dress under heavy weight leather coats helped add a womanly sensuality to some of the looks and several of the dresses came with lace inserts and spaghetti straps which showed off the chest and emphasised the bondage-esque scarf tied around the neck. After all, it wouldn't be Tisci at Givenchy without some sort of sexual undercurrent.
Earlier this month we reported that Marc Jacobs moving to Dior was increasingly looking unlikely and now sources confirm that the move is definitely not happening.
LVMH reportedly approached Jacobs back in July after Bill Gaytten's less than impressive couture collection for the house and while Jacobs' move to Dior seemed secure, negotiations fell apart over money and Jacobs wanting to moving his whole Louis Vuitton team to Dior with him. As a result, a source close to Jacobs has confirmed that the designer "declined" the job for good earlier this month, as we reported.
Just as the who-will-replace-Galliano-at-Dior speculation finally began to die down, latest rumours have already talking again. The latest name to be thrown into the hat? Marc Jacobs, it seems. This week WWD confirmed that Jacobs' contract at Louis Vuitton is coming to an end and he's allegedly been in "serious" talks with LVMH bosses about jumping ship leaving Phoebe Philo to reportedly take his place at Vuitton.
Although Alber Elbaz, Sarah Burton and Nicholas Ghesquière have confirmed that they're not leaving their jobs, Haider Ackermann and Riccardo Tisci are still in the list of potential replacements. Bill Gaytten - Galliano's former right hand mind - is said to still be in the running for the big job after making it very clear at the brand's couture show that he's gunning for the role. That said, the collection received terrible reviews making his appointment extremely unlikely.
For Fall 2011, Riccardo Tisci served up a series of panther prints at Givenchy and with the brand's latest campaign, he continues to channel all things feline. Shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Naomi Campbell, Kristen McMenamy, Natalia Vodianova and Tisci favourite, Mariacarla Boscono all appear individually doing their best cat impressions.
I will tell you, in this moment, I am very happy at Givenchy and it is a moment in which I am bringing the game to the next level. So I tell you, I feel at home. It’s as if it were my son. I don’t know how to explain it. It would be very difficult for me to leave.