While most designers are showing the peplum silhouettes that Riccardo Tisci showed last season at Givenchy, he's already moved on. Last night he showed a collection heavily dominated by equestrian touches. It featured a lot more trousers than he's shown in the past in a simple jodhpurs style and leather popped up throughout on everything from riding boots to turtleneck dresses and cropped shorts. Suedes and furs on outerwear was introduced, though, to help break the leather up and add an interesting additional layer.
Where the start of the collection was very strong and masculine with the boxy cuts and tailoring, the end was a lot more feminine. The flash of a red subtly pleated dress under heavy weight leather coats helped add a womanly sensuality to some of the looks and several of the dresses came with lace inserts and spaghetti straps which showed off the chest and emphasised the bondage-esque scarf tied around the neck. After all, it wouldn't be Tisci at Givenchy without some sort of sexual undercurrent.