We were all expecting a harsh and brutal collection from Rick Owens this week. The fire that lined the back of the runway along with the combination of Zebra Katz's 'Ima Read' playing and the Hannibal Lecter-style head wear did little to dispel that but in fact, the collection was far from it.
The opening looks for example came subtly draped and hung loosely away from the body compared to the designer's usual penchant for structure and severity. Coats came in the floor sweeping styles that we saw last season but were less controlled and were similar to the blanket styles we saw a lot of in New York. Naturally, though, there was some structure there especially on a series of cropped leather jackets many of which came with rounded shoulders.
Owens played with block monochromatic colours, particularly on the checked outerwear that he used to close the show and a selection of coats that came with white fur panels on the sleeve. And while the collection was very dark, he did offer a handful of caramel coloured maxi skirts and shearling jackets with oversized funnel necks too.