Early last week we were at talking about the appropriateness of Rodarte's aboriginal prints but now the focus is on references to Navajo tribal culture. Over the past few season everyone from Proenza Schouler to Isabel Marant has tapped into their cultural references and as you would expect, the high street has picked up on this and gone to town. It's this misappropriation of the 'Navajo' name and their culture, though, which has been the source of litigation.
“We are very proud of our name, Navajo,” Ben Shelly, Navajo Nation president, said when referring to a recent legal challenge to Urban Outfitters use of the Navajo trademark and name. “To be used in this kind of fashion, I’m very unhappy with it,” he continued referring to the designers reinterpreting their culture. “The fame or reputation of the Navajo name and marks is such that, when defendant uses the ‘Navajo’ and ‘Navaho’ marks with its goods and services, a connection with the Navajo Nation is falsely presumed,” the suit alleged.
We all love the fairytale of Kate and Laura Mulleavy's designs at Rodarte but that said, their pieces aren't necessarily the easiest piece to wear if you're not about to step out the red carpet. But the duo took that on board this season and produced a collection that managed to straddle the line between creativity and commercialism very well.
The collection began with a selection of heavyweight knee length skirts teamed with matching long sleeved top that tapped into the prairie theme that we saw from them last season. The outwerwear style, though, was new. The black and white shearling jackets and coats that popped up will no doubt be seen on the back of many an editor come next season and literally had the buyers on the front row sharpening their pencils.
Dresses were also strong. Inspired by all things Australian, the pair created a selection of multi-tiered dresses in rich tones like red and orange that had prints that were a nod to traditional aboriginal prints.
This week has been a busy one in Hollywood. Earlier on this week we had the People's Choice Awards and last night was the turn of the Critics Choice Awards.
Outfits on the night that realy stood out came from Charlize Theron in Azzedine Alaia, Michelle Williams in Chanel, Kristen Dunst in Christian Dior, Jessica Chastian in Balenciaga and Shailene Woodley in Calvin Klein. I was really excited to see what Elizabeth Olsen would wear over the next week but her yellow Emilio Pucci dress that she wore to last night's event hasn't got me excited about what is yet to come.
The Oprah Winfrey hosted party for Ralph Lauren wasn't the only big fashion event this week as Thursday night saw Simon Doonan host the Fashion Group International's 28th annual Night of Stars party at Cipriani Wall Street. Guests included everyone from Anna Sui to Amar'e Stoudemire and Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, Lauren Bush, Giambattista Valli, Daphne Guiness and Andrew Rosen all walked away with awards.
As fashion week approaches, news continues to break about changes to the New York Fashion Week schedule. Earlier on this month Tabitha Simmons revealed that Marchesa are ditching their usual presentation format in favour of a runway show and today Style.com announced that MAC will no longer sponsor the Rodarte show. Isaac Mizrahi is the latest designer to announce a change this season.
Rather than playing host to a runway show, the designer has decide to photograph the collection for a look book that he'll send to press and buyers instead."We think that sounds modern," he explained on his blog today. "Of course next season we'll be planning our fabulous lollapalooza fashion show — a 3D in theaters near you."
Earlier on this month Alexander Wang spoke to Harper's Bazaar about his ambitions of turning his family run business into a global lifestyle brand, following in the footsteps for Ralph Lauren, and it looks like that's exactly what he's doing.
Not content with producing menswear, diffusion and accessories collections in addition to his mainline, Wang is now dipping his toe into the beauty world by collaborating with Sally Hensen. Like Giles Deacon, the designer has decided to launch his very own nail colour collection which will debit at his S/S12 show during New York Fashion Week next month.
We have a Monday treat for you. Today the Mulleavy sisters dropped the look book for Rodarte's second collection for Opening Ceremony that is set for an October release. As you would expect, the sisters failed to disappoint. Citing Scandinavia as their inspiration, the duo served up a selection of floaty feminine silhouettes in nudes and pastels,as well as frilly tops teamed with high waisted printed trousers.
The collecion had a feeling of youth about it. Think Love cover stars Elle Fanning and Hailee Steinfeld and you're nearly there. But that's not it. For those of you like me who are fans of all things black, the sisters presented a selection of strong black dressed with sheer panneling for good effect.