It was only last week that Sarah Mower told Another magazine that London Fashion Week can no longer be ignored by the industry and now, that sentiment really rings true.
The British Fashion Council have confirmed that Stella McCartney isn't the only brand choosing to show in London this season as Moschino Cheap & Chic and British heritage brand Belstaff have both decided to follow suit. While the Moschino mainline will continue to show in Milan, Rosella Jardini, the brand's creative director, was confident that London "will be the appropriate platform for [Cheap & Chic] to grow whilst still remembering its roots."
Everything on the creative side of fashion is instinctive. I know for certain when something’s good when I get a physical reaction to it — like goose bumps, a shout of laughter, even feeling a bit nauseous at the newness in front of you. That ‘sick’ reaction is what I had when I came across Christopher Kane at Central Saint Martins ... he was doing something so borderline vulgar with his neon-bandage collection, but I could see he was frighteningly talented.
As one of the first places to recognise Viktor and Rolf, the Hyéres Internation Festival of Fashion and Photography, which takes place each year in Southern France is known as the place to be for cutting edge talent. It should come as no surprise, then, that the winner of this year's award voted on by the public went to 33 year old Tsolmandakh Munkhuu. The Paris-based designer - who originates from Mongolia - painted the models for her show entirely black, for a collection of layering, volume and juxtaposed textures.
Walking away with a prize of 15,000 euros, Alexandra Verschueren won the L'Oreal Professional Grand Prize with a collection inspired by German artist Thomas Demand - impressing Dries Van Noten, Sarah Mower and Charlotte Stockdale, who all sat on the fashion jury.
At the Dior show, trying to fight my way backstage to get a quote from John Galliano, I nearly fell over a tiny, grey-haired woman who, from the back, I took to be a septuagenarian Japanese fashion fanatic, as she was dressed head-to-toe in Comme des Garçons. When she was ushered into the inner sanctum before me, and turned around, I saw, with a sick lurch, that it was actually Tavi Gevinson…Had I not been so busy trying to attract Galliano’s attention, I would have asked Mr Gevinson why he thought it was right to take his daughter out of school to go to haute couture shows, where she would be treated like a celebrity by paparazzi? Or why he thought it OK for her to model for Pop and Love magazines last year?
Louise Goldin is definitely having a golden moment. Following the success of her debut footwear collection for Topshop, her eponymous RTW line, and having only graduated in 2005, Ms Goldin has beaten Christopher Kane, Erdem and Marios Schwab in the battle for the British Fashion Council's annual Fashion Forward scheme. Not only did she manage to break the trio's three-season winning streak, but she also managed to win over the judging panel - made up of Emma Elwick, the BFC and Vogue's market editor; Simon Ward, the BFC's joint CEO, and Style.com'sSarah Mower - and pipped the likes of Basso & Brooke, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Emilio de la Morena, Osman and Todd Lynn to the winning post.
The British Fashion Council has announced the names of the recipients of its designer support initiative under its NEWGEN MEN scheme. Launched earlier this year, the initiative aides designers by providing funding to enable them to showcase their work at London Fashion Week, as well as access to use of the BFC Catwalk Show Space at Somerset House. Like its sister scheme, NEWGEN, which is sponsored by Topshop, NEWGEN MEN is sponsored by Topman and follows on from the MAN show, which offers designers similar sponsorship and business assistance.
This shortlist for the coming autumn/winter 2010 NEWGEN MEN includes Carolyn Massey, whose designs have been described as "quintessentially English", Christopher Shannon, known for his "luxe sportswear inspired collection and wearable collaborations with Eastpak and Topman, as well as LFW credentials having shown as part of the MAN initiative'", James Long, for "his ability to push the boundaries whilst creating truly wearable pieces", and J.W. Anderson, whose "intriguing silhouettes and romantic detailing have affirmed his stature as one of the most promising emerging menswear designers in London."
I am the first to admit that fashion should not be taken too seriously. I mean, as they saying goes 'We're not curing cancer or anything'. But every once in a while we witness something in fashion that, whether it's an exhibition, an interview or a collection, will stay in our minds forever. That was definitely the case at the Nina Ricci show today in Paris. If there was ever a point to make, this was it. Today Oliver Theyskens showed his strongest collection yet to great applause.