It wouldn't be too harsh to say that Emanuel Ungaro has gone from bad to worse. First off it started with that ill-advised partnership with Lindsay Lohan, which was quickly followed by a series of creative directors that didn't last at the brand for too long. To say that it was in desperate need of a shake-up, then, is quite the understatement.
And that shake-up will come from their newly appointed creative director, Fausto Puglisi. The designer has been bought on board as a last ditch attempt to save the brand who has seriously struggled financially as a result of the instability. 'Emanuel Ungaro is a brand that has left a significant mark and still has a lot to say,' Aeffe chairman Massimo Ferretti told WWD. 'Puglisi is a young talent with an international visibility, but with strong roots in our Latin world, and who will be able to turn into a new and contemporary line.'
Diane von Furstenberg isn't the only brand losing its creative director. Central Saint Martins graduate April Chrichton stepped down from her role at Sonia Rykiel last September and it's only now that a replacement has been announced and by the sounds of it, its a good choice.
Geraldo da Conceicao will joined the French label next month, leaving his position as the design director for women's ready-to-wear at Louis Vuitton. Because of the dates, the brand's S/S13 collection has been designed by their in-house team and will be shown in an intimate presentation format rather than a runway show and the new creative director's first collection will debut for A/W13. 'We are opening a new chapter for the company,' Rykiel chariman Jean-Marc Loubier said in an interview. 'We are sure [da Conceicao] will be able to take the Rykiel woman and make her international.'
Gap has been flying solo without a creative director for a while after firing Patrick Robinson just over a year ago. Now it has finally found a replacement and a pretty good one too. Yesterday the brand confirmed that Rebekka Bay will take the role of creative director and executive vice president starting Oct 1.
While her name may not ring a bell, you're definitely familiar with her work. She was the person that "conceptualized, developed and launched" H&M-owned brand, Cos. That experience will prove invaluable to Gap who, admittedly, have a had a rocky past few years
'We've taken the time to identify the right creative leader for Gap and we've found that in Rebekka,' Gap Inc. president Stephen Sunnucks said in a release. 'We're confident that Rebekka's approach to design along with her considerable international experience will allow her to help us build upon the momentum we're delivering in the business today.'
Diane von Furstenberg is on a high. The brand couldn't be performing any better and rumours abound that an IPO might be on the cards and it's because of this success that makes the news its creative director's departure such a surprise. Yvan Mispelaere, who joined the brand in April 2010, confirmed that he is leaving the role just two days after show the brand's S/S13 collection
'I came to DVF to help further the brand's mission and create a world-class design team. I am confident we have been able to achieve that during my time with the company,' he said in a statement. 'I can't thank Diane enough for the opportunity to work with her and such talented people. The group is now well-positioned for even greater success, and I am eager to take on my next challenge.'
The future of Christian Dior is a question that won't go away. Since John Galliano was fired from the brand back in March last year the headlines have been plagued with rumours about who will take over his role as creative director. While the question of his replacement seemed to die down after Marc Jacobs confirmed that he would not take the role, the question has resurfaced as fashion week quickly approaches.
The label's collections under Bill Gaytten have left a lot to be desired leaving many to argue that like any good orchestra, Dior must are in desperate need of a new conductor. Although the issue appears to have been discussed to death in the past year but the experiences of brands like Chanel demonstrate that there's a reason for the ongoing concern about the brand's future without a strong force at the helm. Despite the fact that Chanel continued to sell after the death of Coco Chanel in 1971, according to AFP "in creative terms the house was at a standstill until the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld 12 years later. "You can manage without a designer for a season or two," Serge Carreira, a luxury sector expert, argued. "But there is a limit, a brand must be regularly refreshed, renewed."
Since his role on 'The City' it looks like Joe Zee has got the buzz for TV. This week WWD revealed that the ELLE creative director will reamin on 'The City' but will also appear and host his own show, 'All On The Line', which will air on the Sundance Channel in 2011. We'd be lying if we said that we're surprised. Last August we reported on rumours that ELLE and particualrly Zee were in talks about expanding into TV and their show 'Stylista' and involvement in 'The City' has signalled that they've been edging that way for a while.
So what is the show going to be about? In each of the eight episodes Zee will help a designer in a crisis and serve as a mentor, advising them in the run up to a big buyer meeting by the end of the episode. "It's all about helping them get to the next level," Zee said. "I will be here to lend my expertise". Not content with appearing and hosting the show, Zee is also working behind-the-scenes as a producer.
Contrary to recent reports, it looks likeGareth Pugh will not be taking over as Creative Director at Alexander McQueen. Yesterday his rep confirmed that, "further to speculative reports earlier this week, Gareth Pugh is not in discussions with Gucci Group about a Creative Director role at Alexander McQueen."
The McQueen fall collection is set to show in an intimate camera free collection in Paris this week.
We're sure that there will be more to this story very soon.
At the New York Public Library’s event ‘Close-Up on Grace Coddington’ this week, Grace Coddington, Vogue’s Creative Director, expressed concerns over the fashion industry's attachment to very young, thin models, in an intimate conversation with former Men's Vogue Editor-in-Chief, Jay Fielden.
Coddington, a former model on the sixties London scene, said “It is a big problem. I remember when I was young, they told me that if I didn't lose weight I'd be out of the show, so I spent a week living off of coffee. But I'm a very levelheaded person. These problems nowadays are with kids much, much younger than that, and that's most of the problem; when they're very young and vulnerable.”
Named 'Close', the characteristically American brand Gap is launching the new scent in its stores on Monday 19th October. In true Gap style, prices start at just £5. Gap's Creative Director, Patrick Robinson, was inspired by the classic Gap wardrobe to create the fresh, crisp scent.
"My team is constantly reworking our formula to keep Gap cool and relevant. That's the most important thing to me. Being sexy is part of that lifestyle, and that was the first criteria for this fragrance. It had to be sexy, sensual and beautiful. This aesthetic extends to the bottle design too, crafted to reflect a pure white Opal. When I think of Gap, I think of a white shirt, khakis, and a pair of jeans, and all of those show up in an opal," said Robinson.