As much as the clothes were typically strong, at the Helmut Lang Fall 2012 show all eyes were on the shoes. Even Style.com's Nicole Phelps was critical of the brand's 'low slung, inverted pleat, full-legged trousers,' she wrote. 'It'd be a shame to cover up those killer over-the-knee boots,' and killer they certainly were. We all have Tiffany Tuttle, co-founder and creative director of LD Tuttle, to thank.
'I had met their stylist, Alistair McKimm, the previous fashion week in New York when he came to take a look at my collection,' she told me when asked about how the collaboration came about. 'He thought it might work well for me to work on the shoes for the next show so we all sat down and talked after the craziness of fashion week was over.' The result was a collection of pieces inspired by designers' Nicole and Michael Colovos' interest in HBO series, 'Games of Thrones'. 'They wanted something very powerful and strong looking but with clean, minimal lines,' she explained. 'Eventually we ended up with the 'knife' wedge that is on the boots and the streamlined shape of the over-the-knee boots, which have elasticated leather to enable them to fit smoothly, were a cool canvas to use for the prints.'
Acne aren't the only brand preparing for a special launch as Helmut Lang are about to drop the first collection from their new diffusion line, HELMUT. The brand has a loyal following of fans but one of the biggest criticisms of the brand has been the high price points for the simpler pieces but now that's all a thing of the past.
Fans of the mainline will be able to buy pieces with their signature silhouettes for a fraction of the price with prices ranging from $95 to $210. Even better, the collection isn't a one off. Instead it will roll out season after season with the first collection set to hit stores in May. Whenever pieces from the mainline become available on The Outnet they instantly sell out so there's definitely a demand for their aesthetic at an accessible price point.
Tommy Ton may not be interested in releasing a book just yet but a foray into fashion design is definitely in his future. Yesterday Stevie Dance launched her new online shopping magazine, Shop Ghost, an in an interview with the street style photographer he confirmed that design is something he's interested in. 'I definitely feel that another five years [from now] is probably when I would do a collection.'
While some purists may be cynical and question Ton's decision considering his lack of design training, the move definitely makes sense. After all, over the past few years he has been surrounded by the best clothes and accessories in the business and clearly has a great eye. It doesn't hurt that he's been collection vintage pieces as references too. 'I actually have an archive because I buy old Balenciaga, not like old, old Balenciaga, but I’m talking about early 2000s Balenciaga,' he said. 'It’s mostly women’s. Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. The archive will serve as a reference if I ever design a collection.'
Nicole and Michael Colovos' sent out a strong collection yesterday at Helmut Lang. It's by no means an easy feat dealing with a brand that has such a strong DNA and sadly that showed last season. While the show marked a much welcomed edition to the New York Fashion Week calendar, many criticised the collection for being repetitive and for failing to delve out of the brand's signatures but this season was different. The design duo took these points on board and produced a collection that will satisfy the buyers and customers that will always buy into their classic pieces, whilst also introducing enough new elements to keep things fresh and interesting.
Asymmetric funnel neck jackets were business as usual but on some, the pair introduced fur details along the body that felt more luxurious than what we have seen in the past. Their classic blazers came without lapels and were updated with armadillo-stamped leather sleeves which also appeared on black leather trousers and on a beautiful belted biker jacket that came teamed with a black maxi skirt. Knitwear was another strong point. Styles ranged from chunky and oversized to some of the thin web-like variety. Colour palette-wise, the collection was largely black but a good selection of black and red volcanic like prints that came towards the red helped break it up.
We come baring good news. Theyskens' Theory have confirmed that they are following in the footsteps of brands like Prabal Gurung and Helmut Lang in deciding to live stream their show. But that's not all. The stream, which will happen on February 13, will be available to view both online and on your mobile and Derek Blasberg and Lauren Santo Domingo will be providing live commentary.
Diane Kruger was in Paris last night to celebrate the premiere of her new film, 'Special Forces'. Unsurprisingly, the actress chose this Chanel jacket as the key piece of her look combined with Helmut Lang leather trousers and heels by Alexander McQueen.
Helmut Lang is one of my favourite designers and according to recent reports he also tops the list for Hermès bosses too. After Jean Paul Gaultier decided to leave the brand back in May, Lang was reportedly the favourite to succeed him at the house but rejected offers leading Christopher Lemaire to bag the creative director role. The revelation his not a surprise as Lang is currently focusing on his work as an artist rather than as a designer.