Now this is news we never expected to hear: Karl Lagerfeld is designing his own capsule collection for Macy's, set to hit 250 shops and retail online starting next September. This isn't the Kaiser's first foray into budget-friendlier collaborations. He worked up a range for H&M in 2004, and it sold out in four hours. However, Macy's hasn't drummed up the same buzz for its previous collaborations (with the likes of Rachel Roy, Tommy Hilfiger and Madonna) as H&M has (with designers like Alber Elbaz for Lanvin), and we're shocked to hear Macy's now drawing the highest of high-fashion teammates.
Lagerfeld's collection, however, is just the first in a series of new designer collabs with Macy's. After the Chanel designer will come Kinder Aggugini, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Costume National and Versace. Does H&M have some new, fresh competition now?
Anna Dello Russo, Meredith Melling Burke and Jade Jagger all sat front row at Kinder Aggugini show yesterday to see his spring/summer 11 offerings. This season Aggugini cites Africa as his inspiration stemming from the book 'Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa' written in 1805 by a Scottish explorer. Just in the case the reference wasn't clear enough, models walked down the runway through a big bone structure.
The book charters the explorers transformation from a westerner to fully embracing Africa and this inspiration was made clear. The collection opened with white tailored linen trousers and cotton blazers in brown and dresses came in royal blue. As the collection continued the transformation began with Aggugini introducing earthy browns on waistcoats with silk printed scarves running down the back and dresses came in mustards, browns and orange. Prints were bold in earthy blues and yellows on draped dresses. White jackets came with brown trim. The strength of the collection lay in the maxi dresses that came printed in blue, purple and gold with a racer back teamed with dramatic chunky jewellery.
Classical music crashed to a halt when Kate Bush's 'Hounds of Love' ascended to full volume on the Kinder Aggugini runway, followed with yet another drastic change as the heavy bass of Deadmau5 pounded out. Aggugini cited Juliette Recamier as inspiration, the woman who stood up to Napoleon, with the Aggugini AW10 woman being one who 'lives like a true rockstar whilst turning heads for both her look and her intellect'.
Describing his design signatures as 'Sid Vicious marries Coco Chanel' certainly explains the mix in the catwalk soundtrack, and sheds a little light on the juxtaposition of heavily military-influenced power coats - with carefully selected corners pinned back to reveal contrasting pillar-box red lining - and the long, fluid lines of the black maxi dresses. Stephen Jones' Napoleon-inspired hats suited the army of models' slick black painted hair, of which all sported bar a model with striking auburn locks, which highlighted the reddish tones within the print on her flowing maxi dress. The double-breasted, structured outerwear was the definite strength for Aggugini this season. We couldn't get enough of the raw seam details.
It's official. Prints are going to be big for Spring Summer 2010. We've seen sixties style florals at Betty Jackson, pop art inspired patterns at Danielle Scutt and now an eclectic mix of designs at Kinder Aggugini.
Thick horizontal stipes in monochrome across A-line dresses, snakeskin print on soft blue and pink, and cream and black polka dots all showcased at the Spring Summer catwalk of Kinnder Aggugini. Oversized ringlets and dolly cheeks were the focus for hair and makeup, setting the scene for a rather diversified and theatrical show. Adding to the fantastical theme were oversized Union Jack, polka dot and striped hats, glitzy brocade jackets and metallic maxi dresses, making for a fairy tale style collection.
After sensing the anticipation about young designer, Kinder Aggugini, in the latest Vogue, I knew it was a show that could not be missed. I say young designer but in actual fact Aggugini's CV reads like the whos who in the fashion industry having worked at the likes of Versace, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith.