The Just Cavalli collection started off on the conservative side compared to the designer's usual more-is-more aesthetic but that wasn't a bad thing. The colour palette was monochromatic and came on striped floaty dresses, spray on houndstooth leggings, feminine blouses and a great checked coat with sheer sleeves.
As the collection progressed, though, the Cavalli signatures began to emerge. Leopard print was everywhere and came in various shapes and colours on blouses and skinny trousers teamed with gold lurex blazers with black satin lapels. While the statement pieces will no doubt go down well with his young party loving customer, I was disappointed that he didn't push the signatures forward. The brand's fall 2011 collection proved what could happen when he does just that, so it was a shame to see him slip back into the brand's comfort zone this season.
While the collection paid homage to the past with the plaid shirts, steel toe black boots and leather, the collection felt modern and a projection of what fans of the era will be wearing in the future. The tailoring and assortment of fabrics used on outerwear were full-on luxury. Clearly the Costume National punkster has grown up and made it big. The classic staples are still there but the fabrics have had a huge upgrade. The layering of shearling jackets over long line jackets and tunic tops gave a nod to the space age and the selection of plaid shirts that came with a leather panel along the top and on cuffs and collar made the wardrobe staple feel updated.
Yesterday it wasn't all about the shows in Milan. In the evening, Anna Wintour hosted an event in the city for the Vogue Fashion Fund Who Is On Next Project. Guests included Franca Sozzani, Christopher Kane and Dasha Zhukova.
Having already shown in New York, Milan and Cannes, it's finally our turn to see what Richard Hambleton has to offer. From November 19th, 45 pieces of the elusive designer's work, 25 of which has never been seen, will be exhbited in a pop-up gallery in London's Dairy.
The showcase is curated by Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld and Andy Valmorbida in collaboration with Giorgio Armani and is not the first time they have all worked together on this project. Last September, the exhibition took place in New York and with everyone from Mary J Blige to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in attendance.
"Richard Hambleton’s brush stroke as an artist is genius and is in a league of its own," Restoin-Roitfeld and Valmobida said. "Most significantly, he is the most important and influential living street artist in the world today, with a story and career that is unparalleled. It is also a privilege for us to collaborate again with Giorgio Armani and we’re pleased to present it in such a prestigious space."
Last month saw Restoin-Roitfeld also curate a sell-out exhibition for painter Nicolas Pol. At the event he made it clear that we can expect him to continue to work closely with Giorgio Armani. "I don’t see why it is so bad for an artist to do something with such a credible person as Mr. Armani," he said. "I don’t see how it hurts the artist to do suddenly a huge show in Milan and New York with Armani, which had thousands of people coming and was all over the press. If the art is good and this element doesn’t take too much away from the creative side, then it doesn’t hurt." And Armani is pleased to continue working with the designer saying that he "stands as a reminder that art in all its forms is first and foremost driven by individual passion and creativity”
The exhibition will be open from November 19th - December 3rd at Dairy at 7 Wakefield St in London
Frida Giannini made a bold statement yesterday when she opened the Gucci S/S11 show with strong jewel tones and it looks like she has set the tone of what we can expect this week in Milan.
Following in Giannini's steps, Karl Lagerfeld opted for a colourful collection at Fendi today, showing maxi dresses in baby blue and purple. Dresses came in bright blue nipped in at the waist with pronounced short sleeves and pockets that had been turned upside down. Colour also appeared on bright purple trousers that were teamed with a yellow and blue striped bag and a simple white top. Silhouettes were kept soft and romantic on free-flowing volumous tops and maxi dresses that often came cinched in at the waist.
Today Karl Lagerfeld revealed that he will not show his namesake line next month in Paris as planned. The decision comes as the designer has decided to spend less time on his eponymous line and focus on the launch of his 'masstige' collection designed to bridge the quality gap between designerwear and the high street. Instead, WWD reports that the collection will be shown to select press and buyers in showrooms in Paris and Milan.
We can't help but feeling that designers are quickly realising that the need to create designs that appeal financially to the masses is becoming an unavoidable reality.