Dries van Noten is taking us back to the '50s and '60s for fall, but don't expect a literal take on Betty Draper. The Belgian designer, who presented his AW10 collection at Paris' City Hall yesterday, added 21st-century rebellion to his nipped-waist frocks and swing coats. Would a real retro girl have worn a liquid-gold three-button jacket? We don't think so. For van Noten, the best time travel is playful, and even a little sporty.
Van Noten proved current by mixing prints, with some models sporting both leopard spots and dusky florals on top. The designed infused athleticism with a grey cut-off sweatshirt worn over an easy moss-green shirt. But the real highlights, as would have been true decades ago, were the dresses. The wasp waists Don Draper would have liked were present on cocktail dresses that wavered above and below the knee, but this time, van Noten's expert tailoring flowed easily onto hip-friendly skirts. His expertise with prints, as seen in luxe duchesse satin work, remained intact. And we hope that in 50 years when new designers are looking back, they find van Noten's archive to reinvent.
Maybe I'm in a retro mood after watching '(500) Days of Summer' this weekend, but I'm really loving Wundervoll, a cleverly crafted lingerie line with hints of art deco and a little bit of 'Mad Men'. The German brand, designed by Matthias Jaschke, recently launched in the US and should have a whole new crowd of followers soon.
This week, Jaschke tells The Fash Pack about his emphasis on quality and confidence, and when Carla Bruni can be helpful.
I've been a fan of this Singaporean designer since researching her quirky, retro-inspired looks for a US fashion magazine - and I'm pleased to say my Jo Soh fix can now come online. The designer of the award-winning line Hansel (get ready to 'aww' because she named it after her Jack Russell) has just launched an e-boutique.
Soh formerly lived in London while working for Tristan Webber before moving back to Asia several years ago. With a write-up in Wallpaper, music-industry fans like The Veronicas and a sense of whimsy that everyone could use now, she'll probably have the pieces in her online store going fast.