Alexander Wang, Antonio Berardi, Louis Vuitton, Preen, Altuzarra

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From left: Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera

Suits are another trend that started last season but went into full swing this fall. Wearing suits no longer needs to be boring, as Sinha Stanic showed us last season with their bright blue and pink trouser suits. This season a lot of designers showed relaxed soft tailoring on suits. Calvin Klein and Stella McCartney offered beautiful oversized versions with a cropped legged trouser. Helmut Lang and Sinha Stanic showed us that suits do not always need to look formal. The latter styled them with Dr Martens, showing an easy way of incorporating the trend into our everyday wardrobe.

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From left: Todd Lynn, Mark Fast

Make yourself a playlist of Garbage, Hole and The Cranberries (Zombie only) and prepare for your autumn dose of fashion. Designers ranging from Alexander Wang (obviously) to Mark Fast to Todd Lynn have gone down a dark and dingy path, turning out fringe, leather and attitude for all. Remember biker shorts? Yeah, they're back. But this time, grunge is less about Nirvana and more about sci-fi. It's technical, and it's harsh, and we love it.

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From left: RM by Roland Mouret, Chloe

Although a number of designers went brash and in-your-face with luxury, a good few have chosen to acknowledge the recession and mute things, whether in colour, textile or shape. There still are the carefully crafted evening dresses and the richly flowing skirts, but this time, the palates are somber or pieces are dulled with casual add-ons. If you ask Stefano Pilati from YSL, he'll tell you your eveningwear should be monochrome. Try Ralph Lauren, and you should pair a cardigan with your floor-length frock. The desire for richness is still in their air, but fashion devotees seem more apt to restrain it.

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From left: Doo.Ri, Hermes

Right, people: They don't care how you wear it, but designers are saying, "Wear hides." Sometime's it's coats. Sometimes wraps. Maybe the occasional hood. If we feel crazy, maybe we do feathers, too. From Hermes to Aquascutum, fur is everywhere, in every colour. Feel a bit creepy wearing it? You could try vintage. And if you want to bring out your inner beast without facing the claws of PETA, there's always faux.

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From left: Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors

One of the least welcomed trends this season was the 80s. If highlighter pen neon is your thing, then you’ll be happy. Designers rebelled against the credit crunch this season, opting for bright colours and 80s silhouettes, as opposed to a black heavy pessimistic outlook that was initially expected.

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From left: Alexander Wang, Balenciaga

There’s nothing I love better than a good tuxedo jacket. They have the ability to take you from the day to the evening effortlessly and can instantly make a pair of skinny jeans look smart. This season we’re spoilt for choice. Styles ranged from cropped versions in black that look perfect teamed with a dress for the evening. Designers like Stella McCartney and Thakoon opted for masculine oversized versions. Styled with last season’s peg legged trousers, you can easily achieve a clean, polished look with those shapes. Nicholas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga provided strong classic tuxedo jackets that will definitely be worth investing in come fall, because you can rely on it to take you from season to season.

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From left: Balenciaga, Viktor & Rolf

Saying draping is everywhere is nearly as much of a cliche as saying that decade is back. From Balenciaga to Lacroix, designers are advising us to channel our inner Greco-Roman statues (which were, not so subtly, referenced on the Viktor & Rolf runway). Known most for its red-carpet frocks, Marchesa pulled out a top or two that can take this trend more casual. Copies predicted at Topshop no later than next month.

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From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, YSL

The upshot of so many people going 80s is that remaining designers are displaying the clean structure associated with parts of that decade. Whether that means crisp shoulders and a nipped-in waist on a blazer or nearly straight lines on a Jil Sander shift is left to personal preference. Balmain's interpretation placed an angular jacket with a bright-blue sequinned skirt, striking perhaps the most middle-of-the-road balance with The Bad Decade and, well, realistic cool factor. So get thee to a tailor, my friend. The looks are here, and they should fit perfectly.

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Both Lanvin

This season’s woman is a “warrior”, said Alber Elbaz backstage before his show. This definitely shone through the clothing this season. Designers reinvented 80s power dressing with strong structured shapes and sharp tailoring but in a feminine way. Women no longer need to wear huge shoulder pads a la Margaret Thatcher and dress in a masculine way to be taken seriously in the workplace. Looks were strong but were feminine. Dresses were nipped at the waist accentuating the female form and skirts were beautifully slit at the side, flashing a bit of leg.

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