There’s nothing I love better than a good tuxedo jacket. They have the ability to take you from the day to the evening effortlessly and can instantly make a pair of skinny jeans look smart. This season we’re spoilt for choice. Styles ranged from cropped versions in black that look perfect teamed with a dress for the evening. Designers like Stella McCartney and Thakoon opted for masculine oversized versions. Styled with last season’s peg legged trousers, you can easily achieve a clean, polished look with those shapes. Nicholas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga provided strong classic tuxedo jackets that will definitely be worth investing in come fall, because you can rely on it to take you from season to season.
TodayHeymca showed why they are one of the the hottest tickets on the Vauxhall Scout schedule.
If there's one thing you will be wearing come fall, it's a statment jacket. Let me rephrase that; a Heymca statement jacket. They were padded at the shoulders and on the hip, emphasising the waist and creating a powerful but feminine silhouette. Their autumn/winter offerings included angular tuxedo jackets with a strong sci-fi aesthetic. It's hardly suprising that the pair did a stint at Roland Mouret who is the king of all things stuctured and archetectural.
Helen and Myra, the design duo behind Hemyca, proved that Central Saint Martin's isn't the only place churning out strong design talent. The fashion industry should pay attention to London College of Fashion alumni.
Nico D is all about wearability - and we love that. Chunky knits in classic shapes were styled with oversized leather bags, trilby and khaki trousers for ultimate comfort.
Tailoring was a strength of the show. Jackets, with oversized collars in satin, were boxy and structured with angular shapes at the front, drawing on Didonna's interest in geometry this season.
Evening wear was strong, tied in by a theme of sequins that adroned black turtlenecks, mens tuxedos and floor length evening gowns.
Geometric shapes was the source of inspiration for the show but was not clear in the collection. Individual looks worked well, but toverall the show lacked cohesion. The designer served us with a bit of leather and grunge, some sequins a la Ashish and some casual urban wearable looks rather than committing to one theme and seeing it through. Styling was also inconsistent, starting off very strong and losing it's punch towards the last few looks where a beautiful black knee length dress was teamed with pink fish net tights.
