Milan menswear week kicked off Saturday, and Ennio Capasa has just reminded us why we love Costume National. Maybe it's the richness of fabrics (think mohair or alpaca) or the attention to detail (Capasa is big on "using nanotechnology in a new way"), but we're sold on his mix of classic cuts with a twist.

For AW10, Costume National focuses on opulent textures, strong detailing and a bit of worn-in ease. Or as Capasa put it, "the juxtaposition of the man-made and the organic, fusing the most modern techniques of fabrication available with the most classic tailoring traditions." Silk-wool jackets, cut slightly short, carried a rich sheen in all shades of grey. Pinstripes and micro-chequers drew the eye in close, as did sequin-embellished bomber jackets and parkas made of heat-sealed textiles. As for trousers, Capasa rolled out what we compare to a dressier version of a jogging bottom: loosely cut and elasticised at the ankle. Top the whole look off with tough army boots and black leather gloves, and you have a thoroughly modern, hard-edged style icon.

See more images after the jump